Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

LOL ACC added me on their myspace page not too long ago..

must be desperate for an auto 31 to join..

whats wrong with auto 31's??? look at SLO-031....last time down the strip ran 11's......hopefully will be back out soon with even more power....or my 31....thats auto...and fun as hell...There are times when i wish it was manual....but having an auto outweighs that

also...my mate blew the head gasket on his sr20 powered 1600 the other day......first time he's opened the engine....bought it second hand nearly 6 years ago...and the cars done fast laps at mallala, phillip island, queensland raceway...collingrove..and run low 11 quaters....not bad for a red top sr20 i reckon

this has to be one of the funniest ways to explain how something works:

GTST

R&R = Rich and Retard (kinda like Paris Hilton but with less skank)

the standard R33 ECU will modify the air:fuel mixture by making it run rich and retard the timing when it senses something outside it's expected parameters.

quick lesson.

air goes in through the air filter, goes past the AFM (air Flow Meter) which sends a message to the ECU saying "Hey bro.. there is 12 air habibs coming your way"

ECU goes "No worries bro.. I'll douse them with 2 bits of fuel and burn the f**kers"

the air (habibs) go through the turbo and get all hot and angry like a bunch of lebs that just did 14 sets of bicep curls in a power cage, then through the intercooler to coll off a little, then in to the motor where they think they are entering a hektik nightclub only to be doused in fuel and burnt and spat out the back of the turbo and out the exhaust.

so..

The AFM (lets say is a Kiwi bouncer.. you know.. tough, but can't really count much) can only measure up to a certain number or air.

when you use a boost controller (lets say a hot chick bro), and you turn it up (reduce the length of her skirt and shrink the top), more air gets forced in to the engine (lots of habibs get calls from their cousins and they call go to this place and try to get in).

The AFM can only count so much and realises that there is too much air going in so sends a message to the ECU saying "Bro.. I only counted 15 habibs but I think that another 10 of their cousins snuck in... I'm not sure hey.. I didn't learn to count that many"

ECU goes "f**k you're a stupid coconut c*nt... now I have to deal with these habibs"

So as the habibs make their way through the turbo and intercooler (no doubt stealing stuff along the way), and in to the motor, the ecu douses them with heaps of fuel and makes all the habibs really wet with fuel.. this means that when they are burnt off, they don't burn well and so come out as darker smoke.

Because of his bad mixture (too many habibs in the one club), the ECU also retards the timing (closes the bar for a while) meaning that everything works really badly... all to protect the motor (hektik club) until the AFM (bouncer) gets his shit together and counts properly.

all this means that your car will jerk as if it's hitting some sort of cut or has a fault..

but it's just your car's way of telling you there are too many habibs.

How do you fix this?

Cheapest = A signal bender of some sort (Apexi SAFC is probably the cheapest)

this is a device which teaches the AFM how to lie to the ECU.

You turn up the boost, and 30 habibs arrive and run through the entry door..

AFM goes to the ECU "Hey bro.. I've just sent through 18 business men hey.."

Ecu goes "thanks mate. I'll give them the fuel needed"

this means that you get a leaner mixture and it all makes more power.

a better choice? after market computer.. there are lots to chose from.. do a search.

the after market computer (replacement for the ECU) is fully programmable and so can adjust timing too.. it can also mean that the coconut at the door doesn't have to lie, but instead, it is send on a few special classes and is taught how to count..

Hope this helps.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
    • That worked out PERFECTLY! Thank you big time to JJ. He was able to swap me his stock diff. He drove all the way to me as well. Killer! Removal & install was pretty straightforward. The diff itself is HEAVY. So that’s a 2 man job.  Man does the car drive nice now! Couldn’t have worked out any better 👌
    • I'm interested,do you still have it?
×
×
  • Create New...