Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The answer to all your questions there are, no idea :(

I will be pulling it out when i put the new turbo, and ecu in...so 1-2 months time. As for cost, no idea how much they go for, plus i may hang on to it for regency issues. Power wise...Krishy i think is still using a stock series 1 afm, so about 220rwkw, maybe a bit more.

very very nice power figure Dave specially when its untuned.....R33 AFM's are good for about 250rwkw's and that would be most likely maxing them out at that point....i am going to get the car tuned with the stock AFM and see how much we can squeeze out of it before swaping to a Z32....i am only making 211 atm.....Saturday should tell :(

can someone help me out ?

i bought an engine off this forum which was apparently working etc etc and had been pulled apart and put back together professionally but after putting it in the car and

being compression tested it has low compression (waiting on exact figures).

the guy i got it off said that when i picked it up it had a timing belt on it and the timing was set to tdc but ive come to find that it was missing idler and tensioner pulleys , not to mention

it was also missing oil seals around the back of the cam pulleys and its missing bolts off the intake manifold.

it also had heaps of missing coolant lines...

what can i do ?

ask for my money back ?

ask him to pay for repairs ?

shit mitch your situation is getting worse day by day mate.....well you can give the seller the 2 options and see what he says in regards to it....goodluck with it mate....just cant wait to see your ride back on the road

shit mitch your situation is getting worse day by day mate.....well you can give the seller the 2 options and see what he says in regards to it....goodluck with it mate....just cant wait to see your ride back on the road

you and me both man !

so over this crap

but i got some good news this morning

got accepted into tafe to study Cert II in Automotive Mechanical , starting jan next year :)

makes me think about my power figures....when i first got my car tuned..it still had its n/a fuel pump and reg...but had a early darkhalf rechipped ecu (before realtime) and rb20 redtop nics injectors...it pulled 175.4kw at the treads..but leaning out big time in the top end....this latest tune it had a bosch 040 pump and a vlt reg...but only pulled 150.....my first tune it was still using the same AFM as when the car was on lpg n/a and had it blown apart a few times.....i dont get it....when it was first tuned....it had the same fuel filter and plugs from over a year previously....me dont know...me too little

Dave, get in touch with luke

he still has his GTR pump, and glenn has a Z32 that he'll no longer need, solves both problems then

Correct, got a nice GTR fuel pump sitting here with your name on it. And Glenda has a Z32, problem solvered

can someone help me out ?

i bought an engine off this forum which was apparently working etc etc and had been pulled apart and put back together professionally but after putting it in the car and

being compression tested it has low compression (waiting on exact figures).

the guy i got it off said that when i picked it up it had a timing belt on it and the timing was set to tdc but ive come to find that it was missing idler and tensioner pulleys ,

messing around with the valve timing without knowing what you're doing can definitely have an effect on compression.......very easy to dial in and dial out compression by varying the valve timing slightly.

Might be running like crap though but if it's not running yet, be careful of any valve to piston contact

can someone help me out ?

i bought an engine off this forum which was apparently working etc etc and had been pulled apart and put back together professionally but after putting it in the car and

being compression tested it has low compression (waiting on exact figures).

the guy i got it off said that when i picked it up it had a timing belt on it and the timing was set to tdc but ive come to find that it was missing idler and tensioner pulleys , not to mention

it was also missing oil seals around the back of the cam pulleys and its missing bolts off the intake manifold.

it also had heaps of missing coolant lines...

what can i do ?

ask for my money back ?

ask him to pay for repairs ?

you can ask for anything but your chances of getting it are minimal since it was a private sale so it's a case of buyer beware. that's why buying engine off wreckers will cost you more because they generally come with a start up warranty, so in this case you would have been covered.

I'm still waiting for you to clear the air about your claims about TT. you read the post that SLED made and yet you didn;t see fit to reply.

SCANDY;

S1 R33 and R32 AFM will support around the 210-220rwkw, but the SII R33 (pink sticker, 3 wire plug) will support around the 235rwkw mark. i wouldn't pay more than $100 with the plug for one. I paid $55+20 for the plug for mine and if you look around you can still find them for that price.

Edited by D_Stirls
how far down south do you live Daniel and how soon do you need it on the road?

Me or Matty could tow it up for you possibly.

if i had a winch on my trailer we'd be right..........but i dont :) and i dont hav my winch on the car yet (or a front towbar point for that fact)

Correct, got a nice GTR fuel pump sitting here with your name on it. And Glenda has a Z32, problem solvered

nice. how much? :)

SCANDY;

S1 R33 and R32 AFM will support around the 210-220rwkw, but the SII R33 (pink sticker, 3 wire plug) will support around the 235rwkw mark. i wouldn't pay more than $100 with the plug for one. I paid $55+20 for the plug for mine and if you look around you can still find them for that price.

awesome. cheers dale. ill see what i can find.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
    • Hi.. Just another problem. So maybe you can help. I(my mechanic) done swap from my RB20DE NEO to RB25DET NEO. Everything is OK but we have a boost cut. Coils/Plugs are ok...AFM is ok. ECU is ok. I have Walbro 255 but it "changed" sound few months ago(you can hear it ouside) you did not hear that when it was new(maybe faulty?) Sooo...what now? What can cause this boost cut? It is even when you standing still...
×
×
  • Create New...