Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Already put the dash back together, where were you earlier when I needed you Dion? FFS :)

LOL, you shoulda gotten my phone number out of my Facebook profile :)

Unless I'm working I will go to Vilis tomorrow night, so I can show you how to do them if you want.

balls.

got the pump fitted, primed it, all was sweet, topped up the sump, turned the key, fired after about 5 seconds of cranking.

check for leaks.

gi-f**king-gantic leak spotted.

engine shut off 2 seconds later.

30 seconds of nosing around.

culprit found.

the spin on filter adaptor that outlaws assured me *would* fit, didnt sit properly. was impossible to see before hand, but basically, the o ring is sitting right on the lip of filter block on the engine.

lost a fair bit of oil in the 20-30 seconds it was idling.

taking it back in tomorrow to have a bit of a rant.

meh. at least its the adaptor and not the core or any of the huge number of fittings i have on that.

its undo 3 fittings, move lines, remove adaptor, mostly done.

as opposed to;

remove grill, remove headlights, remove front bar, remove intercooler, undo fittings, remove centre rad support strut, remove core.

do ppl pull the whole dash off to put the led's in? wow i only pulled out my centre bit.. took me all of 10mins to install my LED's

No, the pic I posted was when I ditched my bubbly dash in favour of a non bubbly one I paid $50 for :)

No, the pic I posted was when I ditched my bubbly dash in favour of a non bubbly one I paid $50 for :)

same. i hated the bubble, managed to score a 2nd hand dash for $100... badabing, problem solvered ;D

-D

same. i hated the bubble, managed to score a 2nd hand dash for $100... badabing, problem solvered ;D

-D

No bubbles in mine thank god.

So are people keen on something tomorrow night then since its too late now I dare say?

It wasnt really hard to find a replacement, mine came out of a GTR front cut. I have been told if they are not currently bubbly, that they wont go bubbly. Is there any truth in this? If I have to have my car parked in the sun I have a sunshade and leave both windows down about 1" and pray no bubbles appear lol

It wasnt really hard to find a replacement, mine came out of a GTR front cut. I have been told if they are not currently bubbly, that they wont go bubbly. Is there any truth in this? If I have to have my car parked in the sun I have a sunshade and leave both windows down about 1" and pray no bubbles appear lol

I've never heard that before, however there is a certain logic in that - the bubble only occurs when the glue deforms and the external layer separates from the framework - if you have a dash that is 20 years old already and hasnt separated, then chances are it'll be fine (touch wood - environmental factors notwithstanding)

Theres a guide on here on how to fix the dash but tbh I couldnt be stuffed doing it. I may end up getting an auto trimmer to redo my entire interior and they could probably reuse my old bubbly dash, remove the exterior (or cut and re-glue it) and then recoat the surface with lacquer, repaint etc..

My main issue atm is lacquering the hard upper weather strip - replacements cost $600 per side, so I'm hoping some resin will fill in the cracks and I can paint it gloss black to match the external surround

-D

Your doing a full resto style job on your GT-R ben,

When you sell it and pass one someone will be getting an extremely mint GT-R.

On the rear window the rubber, you know the little metal clip that sits almost perfectly in the middle, has anyone got one that I can grab, mines not there? lol

Your doing a full resto style job on your GT-R ben,

Yep. $20k i've spent on the GTR so far over the last 2 years. This does not count petrol or carloan, but it counts, raa, insurance, servicing, mechanical mods/replacements/upgrades, speeding fines etc.

When you sell it and pass one someone will be getting an extremely mint GT-R.

I won't be selling it. I plan to be riding this car for the next 20 years... probably will get written off by some tossarse whos not paying attention, but fingers crossed it lives as long as I do.... one of the customers at my mechanics is in his 50's, has had the same XB ford falcon with an intercooled supercharger since he bought it brand new as a young man.... I drool over it, even if the paint is shit and there are some ugly bits - its ghetto porn; naturally Im not gonna let mine get that bad, and there are more improvements planned yet, but its all a matter of money - no matter how much I earn, its never enough ;P

On the rear window the rubber, you know the little metal clip that sits almost perfectly in the middle, has anyone got one that I can grab, mines not there? lol

Dunno about that, speak to koji at japanese import spares in windsor gardens, he has damn near everything (and hes gotten me some great prices on door seals which I may go for depending on lukes contacts :)

-D

HAHA! awesome work that he was attacked.

Personally, i enjoyed the middle section of the article where it says " Will the premier Twitter about this?"

Oh dear god.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...