Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

have you tried cranking over crank with a ratchet just to make sure it hasnt seized, if it hasn't as long as when you changed all your electrics over you put your series 1 coil packs and igniter over then you should use the series 1 ecu and it should work. only thing left is a loose connection or blown fuse or realy, easist to pull out all the fuses check if they are ok, i dun remember how to check relays mabye try swaping the mayor ones around if there are any and smell then see if they smell burnt out, then if that fails start checking ALL of your connections you have made make sure everything is hooked up and hooked up correctly and properly

Dont dry cell batteries need a charger with a lot more oomph than normal batteries?

What sort of battery do you have and what charger are you using?

I had my dry cell on charge with a small charger for quite a few days...lol it didnt work at all :)

Maybe try a new battery (not a new dry cell they can be $$$$) at least it will rule it out.

well i brought a new battery its worked well sort of

it primes everything up all sweet n shit all lights work

but its wont fire the starter motor

can i have put the wires on the wrong terminals on the starter motor

does anyone have pic of whet side they go on ??

Noone on here will be able to tell you with certainty what your problem is. Grab your multimeter and start by checking the voltage across the starter motor when trying to start and if that's no good check for continuity (resistance) between the ecu (pin 43 i believe, but check this) and starter, check the fuse etc. There isn't much really to the circuit apart from the ignition barrell. If the ECU isn't sending the correct signal (eg. series 1 vs 2) then you have basically no chance.

Is the ECU spitting out any error codes? Is there power to anything else? (water temp sensor, CAS, AFM, coils, fuel pump as random examples)

Edited by govich
Noone on here will be able to tell you with certainty what your problem is. Grab your multimeter and start by checking the voltage across the starter motor when trying to start and if that's no good check for continuity (resistance) between the ecu (pin 43 i believe, but check this) and starter, check the fuse etc. There isn't much really to the circuit apart from the ignition barrell. If the ECU isn't sending the correct signal (eg. series 1 vs 2) then you have basically no chance.

Is the ECU spitting out any error codes? Is there power to anything else? (water temp sensor, CAS, AFM, coils, fuel pump as random examples)

i know that but im elimanating anythin possiable

error codes ?? how do i find this out

and where is pin 43 on the ecu

my hole wiring loom in s1 any wires or elec componants are s1 all i dont was use the head and block

when you say you dont have any spark or inj do you mean the starter try's to crank it but it doesnt turn over just going tick tick tick?? are both the injectors and spark not working how have you tested for both? is the fuel pump priming?

Try swaping with a known good series 1 ecu, make sure the ignitor pack is plugged in properly, double check you havent missed pluggin in any of the connections. are the ignigtor packs known to be good?? stupid question but did you transfer over your spark plugs sometimes people forget the obvious things.

when you say you dont have any spark or inj do you mean the starter try's to crank it but it doesnt turn over just going tick tick tick?? are both the injectors and spark not working how have you tested for both? is the fuel pump priming?

Try swaping with a known good series 1 ecu, make sure the ignitor pack is plugged in properly, double check you havent missed pluggin in any of the connections. are the ignigtor packs known to be good?? stupid question but did you transfer over your spark plugs sometimes people forget the obvious things.

i have plugged everythihng in

the pump is priming

its turning over

the ignightor pack is pluged in

spark plugs are in

i tested them all

spark plugs not sparking

inj not pulsing

all tested

  • 3 months later...

have ya found out what the problem is yet with your car

i have a similar problem at the moment. The car was running previously but then now wont start. The engine is turning over but just wont start.

different power fc's have already been tried. Spark plugs, coilpacks, different CAS will be looked at monday.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeop... binned it   This will be a summary will not many pics atm and cbf  Fixed the samsonas - it was totally munched Put a new precision 7675 T4 on with proper split pulse mani Got to Sydney to get to car - drove to canberra to get racecar - drive back to sydney that night Next day all day at Plasmaman putting on new clamps cleaning some things up and adding another large engine oil cooler sitting at the rear above diffuser to keep things cooler Next day - Tuesday - on Dyno - killer wikid awesome pumped out really good numbers - more mid range and on lower boost levels Wednesday - first prac - all day again getting the suspension right - had to borrow front suspension again - out do a lap come in - out do a lap - in - what i had just couldnt handle the load at the more consistent higher speeds - got a lap in at the end of the day that was pretty reasonable  Put it this way that lap wouldve had me in 4th in Pro am for the whole event - with only 700 hp and used tyres Thurs first official prac day - lap out warm up - with above setting and 80% effort took corners 1,2,3 and into 4 car felt awesome -  rear came around out of nowhere bang into the wall near front on at whatever 140 kmph Done, over, gone Just one of those how did that happen apparently as all indications show nothing out of the ordinary Got to spend the rest of the time at the event like I hadnt done before - was actually Ok mainly as I had my family and my boy is 9 and got treated like a rockstar Long trip home, lost a trailer wheel in nowhere land, X5 airbag suspension gave up half way across nullabour and rode on bumps stops (its now completely fine) had to do a 19 hr drive day on day 3 as accommodation got screwed up so just had to keep driving till found a town with some Now to reassess - there is no easy fix there is no i'll just order that part and get it sent - we'll have a talk to people see what can happen and what the go is but at minimum its rebuild from scratch struts forward and alot of time effort and $ should and if I return and if but maybe/ when  I have the cage tied into the front strut towers - if I didnt have that things couldnt been worse you can say its just a front end but if you know what goes into these cars... you'll know what that actually means in reality   Car was very fast. Disappointing we just didnt get to show it     Apparently this is motorsport !  
    • Thanks, will do that.  Thankfully they still feel great.
    • Yeah man, absolutely. You can try pushing me all the way in swapping the R34 for an E9x M3 
    • It's almost certainly going to be some amount of pads compound transfer onto the rotors. It will probably go away after you've run them for a bit. If not, pull it all out, lightly sand the rotors, scuff the pads, and rebed.
    • no one recommending speedtek gearsets?   i'm in the same boat as Cosline but rwd, I am holding boost back in third to 600nm at the hubs to save the gear as i make nearly 750nm at the hubs on a mainline
×
×
  • Create New...