Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone

i'v got about 10k to spend on a car, i was wondering if that is enough to get me into a decent turbo manual skyline ?

It doesn't need to have any mods, i'm just looking for a car with decent k's and in good condition.

What do you think i would be looking at ? R32gts-t ? R33gst25t?

all replies are appreciated !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188740-10k-enough/
Share on other sites

Yeah around the $10-$12,000 mark for a 32. As with all imports dont get hopes up about km readings, judge the amount of wear and tear on both the interior and engine bay to the odometer display. Also trying to find a 32 with no mods is quite low as most skylines have some sort of mods done to them. Best bet is to try car sale sites.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188740-10k-enough/#findComment-3402641
Share on other sites

Do a search at www.carsales.com.au and uniquecarsales there are a few which may interest you and it will also gie a good idea of what you will get for the $$$. As said above will not be many in stock form. I rekon get one with only basic mods, like exhaust, fmic. I just had a quick look and there's a couple of R33 GTST's for 10k.

I have bought a few cars through carsales and never had a problem. Just make sure to do the research first and have the car fully inspected before paying anything.

Good luck.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188740-10k-enough/#findComment-3403034
Share on other sites

Personally i reckon with a little patience you can just go for an R33. I waited SIX months from when i wanted one til when i bought it.

In that time i researched EVERYTHING about them, saved 10 G's cash, got price estimates for the car + insurance + transfering rego etc etc. I also attempted importing.

I ended up with a neat R33 for a few grand more than what u wanna spend and it's NEWER than an R32, more POWERFUL than an R32 and arguably BETTER LOOKING too. Also it's mechanically newer and that's important repair-cost wise.

My 2c is wait a little longer and get a better car (though not to bag the excellent R32) that you can keep for a while longer and really enjoy.

Good luck

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188740-10k-enough/#findComment-3405076
Share on other sites

Yeah I would go for an R33 if I could but, since I am only 22, I think I need to keep aside at least 2k for insurance and all that stuff.

And also I can't really be bothered buying a new car only to convert it from auto to manual or from NA to turbo or whatever, but thanks for the reply anyway.

All replies are appreciated !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/188740-10k-enough/#findComment-3406820
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Post up a showing a a wide RPM range, wastegate duty, timing, TPS, MAP Use 2x rows if you can, easier to read the data. Or just send it to me 
    • This issue has been there between twins and singles… it ain’t the hot side.
    • This actually makes more sense than what I'm suggesting, which would make me feel happier anyway. I just reached for an idea on the cold side because the tests on the hot side theoretically ruled out WG problems. But now that you mention it, it did bother me that a 12 psi spring on what is supposed to be a good WG setup is on able to get down to 20 psi. That's bullshit. Read that way, that WG is not doing what it is supposed to.
    • If you have a valve, set to 12PSi, and when it ramps up, it goes out to 23PSi, and then settles for a consistent 20PSi and thats the lowest it will go, then I'd be suspecting you have an issue getting enough air to flow AROUND the turbo on the hot side. Now, this could directly flow into what GTSBoy is saying, and that's effectively that your skinny ports aren't able to get enough of the air through the head. Remember, boost isn't a measure of air flow, it's a measure of restriction. And if the turbo at max bypass around it is still able to deliver more air than the head can ingest, your boost will be up.   In the NEO Head, being NA, you said it's stock, are you on stock cams, and stock springs in it?   Have you tried doing a run with the wastegate held fully open start to finish?
×
×
  • Create New...