Jump to content
SAU Community

What to do what to do?!?!?!


Recommended Posts

Guest Mr IAI1124

Guys, blew my RB25DET in the GTS-T a while ago and am now looking at my options...buy an old possibly thrashed out RB25DET stockers n put ecu fmic etc all back with the new engine, OR ... rebuild my old engine with forgies etc. internals and few other things, OR.....go and buy an RB26DETT and drop that in?? Have about 8 thou to spend and just want a relatively quick exercise to get me back and rolling, anyone done an RB26DETT drop in to an R33 GTS-T??? Advise, thoughts pls let me know!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18886-what-to-do-what-to-do/
Share on other sites

Doing an RB30 soon gets expensive. Its the little things that add cost, like drilling and tapping the block for the timing belt (DOHC vs SOHC Head) There is a thread floating around on it.

If your block isnt too badly damaged/scored then id go for a mild rebuild. Just use some nice forged pistons after all the machinework has been done.

... and drop that rev limit to 6600rpm:D

Guest Mr IAI1124

well ive got about 8K for a rebuild and yeh internals i want done but what ecu should i go and who to do it????? so much to figure out but not planning to start for about 2 mths want it planned such that minimal hassles whilst it is being carried out...what is best for my money and what would i be best off spending my dosh on part wise for the rebuild??

I would suggest using an Apexi Power FC and have it tuned by either CRD or The Hitman :)

In regards to parts, I would talk to a good engine builder to discuss what your aim is and what u want out of the motor and the most effective way of reaching such taregt :)

Your best talk to as many places as possible yourself, there are people about that will be able to scare you off any workshop. (every workshop has its detractors)

I havent had anything done by either workshop so cant really comment.

Have you considered an actual engine shop, that has its own in house machining facilities. I would imagine you should have plenty of change from 8k.

Word of advice, dont go telling any shop you have 8k to spend!

Please post or PM your findings - I am looking for the same thing and will reciprocate (sp)

Group buy on forgies ! Yay !!!

There are a couple of other ppl on the board that are after the same too !

Cheers,

Originally posted by B-Man

Group buy on forgies ! Yay !!!

There are a couple of other ppl on the board that are after the same too !

I've been looking around as I'm getting depressed with my car lying idle... I can't seem to find forged pistons at anywhere near reasonable.

I'm looking at GT-R pistons now unless someone has better ideas...

T.

Originally posted by Roy

Whats up Tony, your car packed it in as well? What happened?

yeah, long time ago. I doubt the thing starts any more given the length of time it's been idle.

I've been talking to Brendan about the whole episode but for right now - it looks like GT-R or GT-R N1 pistons might be the go.

T.

Guest Mr IAI1124

WHo here is running some serious power through standard internals?? What is the limit with standard internals?? I am considering buying a stocky second hand engine and dumping that in, my prev engine didnt run aftermarket ecu or big turby or anything, jus airfilter fmic and exhaust, if I run same again on a standard engine how long SHOULD it last???

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...