Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there,

I have heard people making high awkw on the GTRs with stock exhausts.

I'm aiming for 240rwkw with my rb25 - currently 3" turbo to cat --> 3" catco cat -->3.5" catback (kakimoto)

Its not real loud but would like to quieten it further. Would a GTR catback fit? How much power would this rob?

The kakimoto already has 2 mufflers.

Anyone have first hand experience?

thanks

Keep the current one

What most people do for stock exhaust 2.25" GTS-t round 2.75" for a GTR

is replace it form the catback, GTR/GTS-t catbacks are the same, it's only the front pipe which is different.

Your 3.5" exhaust is definitely large enough for the power goals you are chasing, even a 3" would do for that power :)

Edited by skybarge

is the kakimoto the JASMA one? thats the one i have and it purs just nicely if you want quieter than that you need a cup of harden the f*k up! :) most people think mine sounds stock till you over 5k

I have a 33 GTR with a stock exhaust. It's pretty awful. it's very tiny, heavy and restrictive. It's one of the things nissan used in order to keep the power under the 206kw agreement. They were quite smart though. They used reasonable dumps, pretty good front pipes (on GTR) and a good cat, then put a strangling exhaust on it, becuase of this a modifier can reap a much bigger than normal gain when changing cat back exhaust on a GTR. thanks nissan :)

Thanks Beerbaron - sounds like its not a good idea then.

Daniel - Yeah I have the Jasma one. It is pretty good but around 2000rpm cruising it is a little dronny..not much though. Its actually quieter at 4000rpm.

mine is the same, I'm currently looking for ways to quieten it right down.

pay the exhaust man $1k plus and you will have a quite + free flowing exhaust.its all in the type of mufflers you use.

or you could stick with your current setup and just throw a silencer in the exhaust tip.or yopu could buy an apexi exhaust valve (which sits in place of a flange gasket i think).which can be remotely activated from within the cabin via a lever and cable setup.

  • 1 month later...

consider using thicker wall mild steel pipe. in my experience it definately cuts down some of the resonance and 'drone' and helps mute the note a little too. thin walled stainless pipe is always loud and resonates a lot.

Thanks Beerbaron. Might make up a 3" in MSteel modelling my kakimoto.

Does anyone know exactly what the GTR Cat back size is?

Is it 2.75 or 2.5" ?? Is it in fact bigger than the GTST?

I was thinking of keeping 3" Dump/front --> 3" Cat ---> GTR Standard 2.75? Cat to rear muffler (chop and weld on flange) ---> Kakimoto rear muffler.

Cheap way to see if quietens it down while still making ok power.

Anyone got a GTR cat back (minus muffler for $20? hahah)

trust me the stock GTR catback may be better than the GTST one, but it's no great shakes. I'm not sure if it's 2.5 or 2.75 but I'd say 2.5 if I had to guess. plus it has lots of bends as it follows the body fairly closely. It is fairly easy to make an exhaust that flows as good as the stock one, yet makes more power. as I said the standard GTR exhaust is made partly to keep power out put down, not up!

So what is a good muffler/ resonator (and cheap) to weld into that pipe from cat to rear muffler?

I have heard the oval off centre entry ones are good..I guess the bigger the better for noise abaitment

Might grab some 3" pipe

3" should flow 240rwkw right?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
    • Well the articals keep saying a Q50s (Skyline in Japan) with a new Manual gearbox. I like the talk about the new looks with the round tail lights. I hope they bring back the retro look like they did with the Z
×
×
  • Create New...