Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I just bought a R34 GTT and have purchased a Nismo Radiator Cap. I am hoping to make the engine abit more visually appealing.

However, the nismo cap is for 1.3 bar, where as my standard cap releases at 0.9 Bar.

Im just wondering whether or not i should actually use it, as this is quite a large increase in pressure to my cooling system.

Any ideas and feedback would be great.

I just dont want to damage or cause any problems to my cooling system just to have it show the Nismo logo.

Cheers Grant.

PS i searched but couldnt find any topics to fit my question :down:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/189293-installing-nismo-13-bar-cap-to-gtt/
Share on other sites

Someone in Vic did this to their 34 gtt....then spent a fair bit of time on a skidpan which resulted in the radiators head tank exploding due to the increased pressure.

Basically don't fit unless you have an alloy radiator.

awesome. I read somewhere that most nissan turbo models run 1.2 bar stocko caps anyway and the non turbos run 0.9..

Mine clearly says .9 and as far as i know its all stocko.

Oh well might make a good paper weight at work or something.

Thanks for the reply!

Haha thats the best video ive seen in ages.

In short... my car will never cop that much punishment. I wish it did, but i couldnt afford to break it lol.

So yeh, i can understand that sort of punishment will find the limits of the standard cooling system haha. but lets be honest, mine only does the daily job and sometimes cops a first to second gear. nothing really

I might put it on yet..

Someone in Vic did this to their 34 gtt....then spent a fair bit of time on a skidpan which resulted in the radiators head tank exploding due to the increased pressure.

Basically don't fit unless you have an alloy radiator.

thats absolute bullshit, if your car is a shit box course it will have issues..... blame the radiator not the cap......FFS i can tell you now if it had std cap it would have spewed all its coolant all over the place then probaly cooked itself.... if the rad was in good nick it would been fine. think of it as fitting a bigger turbo to a tired engine.... not a good idea.

the whole point is to increase the pressure to raise the vapourisation point, works very well so well in fact i have them fitted to all the tow cars we use.

When towing the race cars around the old patrol (2006 model) used to vent the cap during towing and continue to pump the coolant out of the resevoir now it is sweet. Same with most cars that see track days or hills work.

best budget cooling upgrade available.

i have a 34 gtt and it has a greddy radiator cap thats at 1.3 bar and ive never had any probs. the car has the usual mods to it hks fmic, hks exhaust, power fc, spitfire coils. and the car is driven reasonably hard and it has never used a drop of coolant since ive had iticon1.gif

Hi guys, thought i'd share my .25 cents.

I make alloy radiators for a living and service radiators..

Stick with 0.9 bar, if you're having over heating issues and need to go up in pressure, something isnt right..

The reason bass junky's radiator exploded was he would have had an old top tank on the radiator, these are always seeing the hottest water and if the motor is overheated at some stage steam kills the plastic in the tanks..

after years of hot/cold/hot/cold/steam cycling, the plastic gives away.. it's a simple fault.. some radiators being cheaper to fix/repair obviously.

I have an R32 GTS w/ rb20det in my skyline with a standard R32 GTST radiator that has been rodded out and a new top tank on it.. I can sit on the spot for hours with NO overheating problems and NO radiator-exploding-on-skid-pan problems re: bass junky.

Also, alot of the "greddy/trust/nismo" radiator caps are rebranded denso caps.. I will only ever use a genuine denso cap for my cars (0.9bar)

May I ask why is that? What are the cons of using a 1.3bar one?

Higher pressure caps will find the weakness in your cooling system..

either old heater hoses will pop, or the top tank will or turbo lines will or a heater core will leak..

As far as i'm concerned if the radiator has never been serviced and you put a higher pressure cap on it.. you're asking for trouble.. sure it may work fine, but its only a matter of time..

  • 2 weeks later...

Poor excuse for lazyiness^^^^ if its gonna go with a 1.3bar cap its gonna go regardless of cap pressure as it is already compromised.... time is the only differrence.

I agree with URAS, if you want to go racing or drifting make sure all your hoses are new ones (sillicon is best) not old, and that all clamps are quality and tight. Get your radiator rodded/cleaned out every year and wack on a 1.3 bar and Bobs your uncle.

Edited by ryano

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...