Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys tried to search but no luck. anyways my question is that can you have the HID kit for just the head light?? like what i mean as with the projector type headlights the high beams are different bulbs to the low, like do yous only have a HID for the lows??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190175-hid/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

When you get those cheap HID kits, they're only replacing your low beam globes. I've got them in my car and don't recommend them. They produce a lot of glare and hot spots.

The main difference between a 32 and euro projector would be the design and materials used. The euro ones are better designed to produce less glare and have a sharper cut off line. It's all in the design and projector material as far as I know.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190175-hid/#findComment-3426980
Share on other sites

I don't agree that r32 projectors aren't worth it ... it's all subjective. You will have to recognise that they will never be as good as a retrofit, that is where you take the entire headlight projector designed for HID from another car and mount it onto your car..

The kits on ebay and HID conversion 'bulbs' are a bit different because while they use the same technology as factory setups but they don't give you the proper projector designed for these. They do however make the HID bulbs to fit your projector (H3 or H3C or H1 or whatever).

Now.. personally, I have installed a kaixen kit from BATMBL in both a r32 and a31 and I thought it was a good result. I had 6500k or 6000k I believe - the closer to 4300k (daylight) the better, but I decided on 6000k range (bluer) because the projectors are not designed for HID and so did not want the extremity/full effectiveness of something like 4500k.

The typical things that will go wrong with these kits are glares and hot spots. I had 2 minor hot spots and with no cut off shield - I had OEM crisp cutoff and better lighting. I DID have to be careful with the glare and hotspots however because these things can be a nuisance in the wrong hands.

So ... basically, you can put one in the cheaper/worse way and yes it will work. It's actually quite acceptable (dialled in correctly). If you have the money and can do it, the best way is retrofitting a proper projector into your headlight assembly and you can use the proper HID bulb sizes and have the full benefit of the technology. If you don't want to go hunting wreckers for OEM stuff like honda etc.. get a kit from http://www.hidplanet.com/package.html - take a look at their forums too you can learn heaps there.

GL

oh yeah someone on these forums did the cleanest retrofit - they have a thread.. you'll have to search I can't remember their name but they had skills...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190175-hid/#findComment-3427037
Share on other sites

Yeah, Ronin did a retrofit on his GTR with euro projectors.

Hey someonestolecc, any chance you can get some pictures of your lights? I've got some installed and not all that happy. I just wanna see what yours looks like.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190175-hid/#findComment-3427253
Share on other sites

If you're planning on just changing the globes, you can just change the low beam ones.

The kit in the link you just gave is for the projectors which come with the kit. You can't use those globes in your 32 projectors.

Did I answer your question or?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190175-hid/#findComment-3432104
Share on other sites

just make sure you bridge the connections for low beam so they are constantly on... R32's alternate between high and low beam, and it can be quite detrimental when xenons are flicked on and off.

one thing that intrigues me is this whole heat spot thing... thought xenons were meant to be cooler than regular bulbs.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190175-hid/#findComment-3434521
Share on other sites

The temperatures the globes operate at doesn't have any effect on the hot spots. It's created from the design of the HID globes. The headlight projector is designed to run halogen globes which produce the 'brightest' light in a different area of the globe compared to the HID globes. The halogen globe could produce the brightest light in the middle of a H1 globe and a HID globe (still H1) could produce that bright spot at the top of the H1 globe making the light reflect differently in the headlight making the light not focused properly. Sorry if that didn't make any sense, but here's a picture of headlights with hot spots and one without.

With hot spots (my headlights):

post-32186-1193307909_thumb.jpg

Notice how the light isn't spread evenly?

Here's a shot of a car with retrofits:

post-32186-1193307981_thumb.jpg

The light is all evenly spread.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190175-hid/#findComment-3434634
Share on other sites

I've got H1 low beam that a guy ordered for his R32 GTR . He didn't know that it wasn't a straight fit and have to do few modifications. Its BRAND NEW 6000K HID H1 Lo BOSCH HID conversion kit. Happy to let it go for $150 pick up sydney or for extra $20 delivered.

Guys does this kit suit R32 Gtst? I keep getting enquiries for this H1 low beam kit but i ask them to check globes first and they never reply :-(.

Oh i dnt have projectors with this kit so you'll have to buy this separate

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190175-hid/#findComment-3435563
Share on other sites

hey Flash,

THose projectors will fit :P but ask them to send you the RHD ones, not the LHD ones, otherwise your light output will be facing the wrong side of the road, so instead of lighting up cateyes, you'll be lighting up peoples houses

I've almost finished one of my headlights now, it's taking a while longer than expected, due to budget reasons, but I'll post a picture up of my first one finished. I might only ever get one finished though, because I'm going to be selling both my cars and going for a C35 Laurel, then modding that, just to save money on petrol at the moment, has the base RB25 Neo engine though, so I'm sure i could RB30 it later on

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190175-hid/#findComment-3437600
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I've been wrestling with this for a while now and have been trying to find out the cause. For context, the turbos used are Garrett 2860 -5s, the BOV is a BNR32 HKS SSQV IV kit, the car is currently tuned to ~470 whp on 17.5 psi. The car drives normally, pulls well when it doesn't happen, and I can replicate it fairly easily. It does not sound like turbo shuffle or flutter. The engine has only a thousand or so miles and has had this behavior since it was completed. After my engine was built for my R32 GTR, I noticed that the car now sometimes makes an air discharge sound on what appears to be positive boost pressure that sounds really similar to a BOV. I had thought that it was a BOV issue but even when replacing it with a brand new unit, the sound persisted. It seems like it's coming from the passenger side but I may be mistaken. The closest scenario I could find was this post here https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/https://www.gtr.co.uk/threads/maybe-a-boost-leak-opinions.147955/ started by @yakshii and it sounds very similar. As in, at partial throttle once I reach positive boost I begin to hear the same psh psh psh psh psh sound like air is leaking somewhere when I keep the throttle in the same position. It most commonly happens in 4th gear at around 3-3.5k RPM and 5th gear around 2.5-3k RPM, which seems to coincide with normal positive boost thresholds. It might be similar to what @Austrian GTR mentioned about his own HKS SSQV. Notable difference would be that when he applies more throttle when it happens, it stops. In my scenario if I apply more throttle during this repeated psh psh psh sound, the cadence of the sound gets faster and louder rather than stopping. If I lift off slightly and apply throttle again, it will normally stop and pull without issue. I've checked all rubber couplers to ensure that they are tight, but have not gotten the opportunity to properly do a pressurized boost leak test. If anyone has had similar experiences or thoughts on what might be the cause, I'd be very keen to hear them. I also have a video of it happening from inside the cabin, if that would make it easier to understand: https://youtu.be/2zqZXcx8jbA
    • I'd want at least $40K for mine, but thats easy to say cos I'm not selling anyway.
    • That's incorrect. We have 4 seasons, consisting of pre winter, winter, post winter and a small glimpse of hope! 
    • I spotted a black C34 in Mittagong this morning!
×
×
  • Create New...