Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was "observing" my cat, with the intention of upgrading to a Jap-spec :( on the weekend, when I noticed a sensor going into the cat. this sensor is extremely tight (no doubt because of the expansive heat and corrosive gases etc.

point is, I couldnt get it out, and therefore the Jaap-spec upgrade is on hold until I know what this sensor does.

followed the wire to under the passenger side front seat, from where I assume it goes to the computer.

Questions:

1. what is the sensor

2. what does it do

3. what happens if I cut it?

4. who do other people with the same year/model not have this *swear word* sensor?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19036-cat-converter-sensor/
Share on other sites

Guest RedLineGTR

i have had it on mine most aftermarket cats dont have a whole for it...you can unscrew it with a spanner..its a thread type of screw. It is the the emission control systems in cars, nothing happens when you pull it out, i have just put it under the heat shield above the cat and tied it down. It just makes some calculations etc, nothin serious, can really get technical.

Have not had any problems and most people do the same, dont know about cutting it but i just hid it out of the way just in case.

It's a temp sensor (or pyrometer) on the R32's.

I will double check the wiring diagrams and ecu diagnostics I have for R32 to see how exactly its connected. From memory it didnt look like it had any ECU function and is only used for a warning light.

on a r32 the cat sensor goes to the light on the dash

it does this aswell for a 33 but allso sends a signal back to the ecu to tell it that it is registing the heat in the exhaust if u take it out the ecu doesnt get the signal and puts the engine in to a semi limp mode because it cant read the exhaust heat

i kmow this coz i put a rb25t in a silvia and run like crap on boost put this sensor in the exhaust problem solved

its out of the way under the car and its there for a purpose

zanda, don't cut it dude, i had to cut my old sensor because for f**ksticks who did my cat for compliance welded the bloody thing on. i managed to get hold of a new sensor easily enough though. when i cut it, the cat light came on, on the dash, and stayed on all the time. it's there to tell you your cat could be blocked, but because mine was cut, that's what it was thinking. if i left the car idling for about 2 minutes it would turn itself off with this sensor cut (as greygirl1976 said, limp mode). you could just unplug it from under the seat (i don't know if this will cause the light to come on or not), or just tie it on to the cat, or just plug it in. mine is currently plugged into the car, but not connected to the "cat", just tied onto the side of it for now and its fine.

Hi guys, in Japan it is a requirement (since the 80's) to have a warning if the catalytic converter is overheating. The sensor mounted into the cat is for that purpose. I have yet to find a car that runs any differently when you unscrew the sensor and wire it up out of the way. I have seen people clamp it to the outside of the exhauts pipe just to be sure.

The lambda sensor for air fuel ratio checking (fuel economy and emmisions control) has to be mounted much closer to the engine. This means immediately after the turbo on Skylines.

Hope that clarifies

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome.  800hp should be a bit of weekend fun!
    • I'm going with "Just run two gates". Fix the problem conclusively. It's the only way you'd ever truly know, right?. This is all pretty much splitting hairs. Even the extreme example where it takes two whole seconds at 100kmh or something sounds monstrously dubious. And anyway, when you're punching the throttle when you 'need' this power, you aren't at 2800rpm in the wrong gear. Test it at 5600rpm in 3rd gear, when you're traction limited punching out of a sweeper. Much difference there when you account for traction?
    • And the full R32 GTR wiring diagrams are also freely available. Hmm.... there's supposed to be an auto replace that would have linked the thread. Here it is, manually  
    • Ahh...should have been clearer ~ there's 2 ... SMJ = super multi junction (connector)...   ...this is connector 6 & 25 in above image -- body harness to engine loom (6) & body harness to main loom (25) Headlights go to front via connector 6 ; fuel gauge goes to tank sender via connector 25  ...like I say this is R33 diagrams, but at a pinch R34 won't be too far different. *IF* the two ground faults are related, this can be the only place where both wires converge (as one runs to the back, the other to the front)... ....thing is, you probably need to establish if the faults are related (unless you examine that area and find obvious chaffing on the looms there to body ground)....*IF* the fuel gauge is still broken (full needle deflection), I'd be headed for the boot, remove fuel sender wire, key on and measure the voltage there ~ it should be roughly 10volts. If that's ok, check sender to ground resistance...if this is a dead short to ground (and there's fuel in it), then sender has failed or something funky has happened to wiring in the tank. edit: ahh...rereading the thread, this is R32....above fuel sender test still valid tho'
    • I just changed the timing belt on my RB25DET NEO and wanted to get some opinions. I’ve been super cautious, did a lot of research, and took my time. I’ve driven the car, and it runs fine. After warming it up, I revved it to 8000 RPM a few times—no issues, everything held up.   After the drive, I heard a noise that I think is either the clutch or possibly a tight accessory belt. It’s not constant, just comes and goes.   I took the timing cover off to double-check everything:   Belt is on properly, Tensioner is tight, Did the 90-degree twist test—belt isn’t too tight or too loose.     What still worries me is that I noticed the belt seems to sit a little toward the front edge of the gears, especially on the idler pulley. It even looks like it’s slightly coming off the edge there. Is that normal?   My old belt (5 years old, ~3,000 miles) also showed a bit of wear on that same edge, so maybe it’s just how it sits? I’m probably overthinking this, but since it’s my first time doing this on a NEO and the engine is forged, I really don’t want to mess anything up.   Also, I’m thinking of swapping to a clear front timing cover with the glass window. Would you recommend NITO or HPI? HPI looks reputable and their covers have 2.5mm thickness, but not sure if there’s a real difference between the two.   Any advice or reassurance would be much appreciated!
×
×
  • Create New...