Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I replaced my stock RB25DET cams to a set of 260 degree/10.25 lift Tomei Procams and Tomei Cam pulleys.

My car got worst and even with dyno and road tuning im very disappointed with the upcome of the cams.

A few tuners were scratching heads on this particular set of cams. The power is okay from first few ks RPM.

It flattens out after 4200rpm @ 270whp and kept a straight power curve line after that.

One of the tuner said, my VTC is giving the problem and i got the VTC replaced. Later on, they were saying my

spark plugs and i got it replaced too. Till now no one is able to to figure out why and i replaced back my old cams.

After figuring out why... Im giving another try on the cams. I special order the Tomei Valve Springs (10.25mm)

and a set of Tomei Solid Lifters. I'll see whats the upcome after those parts are being installed. Kinda regretted

getting the cams but im not giving up.

Just wondering has anyone tried Procams or is it just mine that is giving problems? Need some input here.

Anyway im running a HKS GT2540, PFC, Walbro 255, Sard 550cc, Nismo reg and internals are dead stock!

Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190676-help-needed/
Share on other sites

yeah, we have had a few rb25 with "soft" springs float quite badly, from memory those cams are not supposed to be used with STD springs and hyd lash adjusters either... im sure they are solid only :D i would be looking at the profiles to see if they are damaged due to bind or excessive float. Who fitted them????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190676-help-needed/#findComment-3433540
Share on other sites

man those cams are too aggressive had them in mine and took them straight out again... on the advice of john for jhh.... He told to stay far far away from them.... you won't get much power gains from them better off with poncams especially if no other work has been done to the head.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190676-help-needed/#findComment-3433575
Share on other sites

man those cams are too aggressive had them in mine and took them straight out again... on the advice of john for jhh.... He told to stay far far away from them.... you won't get much power gains from them better off with poncams especially if no other work has been done to the head.

HAHAH SOUNDS LIKE WE ALL AGREE!

mate those cams do not suit your application lets put it to you that way unless your running a bigger turbo and soild lifter arrangement like uras said which is rite and have done a lot of work on the head u have wasted your money even if u put soild lifters and harder springs i dont see u getting much out of them with that turbo ! u should of went poncams mate!

i think u ordered the wrong ones...try poncams 260--- 9.15lift and then compare your midrange to topend to what your using now...big difference

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190676-help-needed/#findComment-3433960
Share on other sites

With a 2540 (not the best turbo in the world to begin with) - you probably can get away without even spending money on cams!

I ran a stock head for oever 300rwkw and had as good response as everyone else around here with cams :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190676-help-needed/#findComment-3434122
Share on other sites

I know the RB is very sensitive to cam timing compared to say a SR20. My rb26 at 12 psi made 180 kw with a crappy power curve, I dialed in the cams with a dial indicator and then adjusted slightly on the dyno and with only 16 psi the car went 290 rwkw.

???? were they in 180degrees out :/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190676-help-needed/#findComment-3435401
Share on other sites

not quite but probably in the best position if you want to make the least power possible!! ill show you a graph.

post-29334-1193368392_thumb.jpg

let me guess no-name cam gears? i have had a few ground way off!!! like 10-20 degrees!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190676-help-needed/#findComment-3436042
Share on other sites

nah tomei cam gears with tomei cams, i was thinking maby the block has been decked or different size gasket moving the timing around a bit?

at the first dyno to last the cams were pretty much opposite to where they needed to be, so who ever built motor didnt have much idea, or didnt dial them in.

Edited by GTR1993
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/190676-help-needed/#findComment-3436245
Share on other sites

  • 6 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
    • I do this, I also don't get the joke  
    • Return flow cooler will be killing you I reckon. You can certainly push more through a low mount setup but they're good numbers for a stock looking engine bay.  Mine made 345rwkw (hub) at 22psi on 98 with a "highflow" on a stock manifold but it's a long way from a normal high flow or standard engine. I used one of those Turbosmart IWG-75's and it was great with the Motec running closed loop boost with pressure being applied to both sides of the diaphragm. 
    • Hey man do you have pic of adaptor plate by any chance I need to match up the bolt holes as my gearbox adaptor plate ones are way off the only bolts of starter motor are matching thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...