Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a TD0625G sitting around orginally bought for my gtt. Now that I have sold the car I plan to used it on a R33 GTR Im importing. How do you think of this turbo would work on a Rb26?

I don't really want to sell it since I will be losing money and it is a genuine Trust product.

I don't plan to get crazy 400awkw out of my GTR so I don't need a big single. 300awkw is all Im after with PFC, FMIC and injectors which is why I think this turbo should be up to the task and should be more reliable than the factory twins.

What do you think?

Thanks

Edited by BaysideBlue
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191062-small-single-on-gtr/
Share on other sites

I have a TD0625G sitting around orginally bought for my gtt. Now that I have sold the car I plan to used it on a R33 GTR Im importing. How do you think of this turbo would work on a Rb26?

I'm all for seeing a decent medium sized single on an RB26. A mate of mine is actually first firing up his R32 GT-R running a built RB26 and a .82 GT3540R on it - probably bigger than a TD06 25G but the same kind of idea.

a good mate of mine who has a GSTS 33 with a Rb26 conversion (did it ourself) has put a turbonetics T3/T4 turbo on the car with injectors and a autronic SM4 with 2 Z32 AFM's (to make it less harsh on the road). we see about 270rwkw out of that car, and its deadly respsonsive, full boost at about 2900 rpm then it just rockets to the 8k limiter lighting the tires up. if i do a roling start with my GTR runnin 450awkw and hist gtst that car noses ahead cuz the power is lighting fast, but after that the T04Z kicks in and he becomes a spec in the rear view. but i can tell you that turbo is super responsive on the 26 engine, it nearly put us in a lantarn post cuz of the rear end constantly stepping out in 1st 2nd and 3rd gear, its just brutal.

Based on how kick ass the 25G is on a 25, i can only imagine its going to be an equally good thing on an RB26. I personally dotn understand why the 25G isnt used more often as a sngle on 26s

guess people usually stick to twin setup for medium power upgrade and big single for 600hp+

a good mate of mine who has a GSTS 33 with a Rb26 conversion (did it ourself) has put a turbonetics T3/T4 turbo on the car with injectors and a autronic SM4 with 2 Z32 AFM's (to make it less harsh on the road). we see about 270rwkw out of that car, and its deadly respsonsive, full boost at about 2900 rpm then it just rockets to the 8k limiter lighting the tires up. if i do a roling start with my GTR runnin 450awkw and hist gtst that car noses ahead cuz the power is lighting fast, but after that the T04Z kicks in and he becomes a spec in the rear view. but i can tell you that turbo is super responsive on the 26 engine, it nearly put us in a lantarn post cuz of the rear end constantly stepping out in 1st 2nd and 3rd gear, its just brutal.

wow full boost at 2900rpm?? how much power was the turbo rated at? if he made 270rwkw im guessing its an 450hp turbo, only a guess but.

reason for asking I had a GT3240 on my gtt full boost at 3900-4000rpm and its rated at 550hp.

Edited by BaysideBlue

yea it comes onto boost quite heavy because of the smaller exhaust housing, but then again after 7200-7300 we are forced to pull timing cuz of the heat it begins to dail in to maintain the boost, that gives it somewhat of a soggy top end. but the midrange pull is just brutal, on semi slick radials it just tries to blow the air out of your lungs due to acceleration. the engine we run is the RB26, bored to 86.5mm using wiseco forgies and pauter H beam rods. the cranck was regrinded and ACL black bearings used allround. full ARP bolts and nuts all put together with surgical precision, i wanted to go perfect on this one so it took me about 4 months for the job. it has tomei lifters, jun springs and titanium retainers and tomei 254@ 9.15mm lift cams and to top it off, 0.5mm oversize manley gen II valves with a port job and a 5 angle valve job. I know i know, that turbo is choking the engine and not utilizing the power it is capable off, but after my bud built the engine invested in electronics and gearbox internals and differentials and respraying the car and bodykits etc he forgot the most crucial part, the TURBO, my wife had a new one that was ready to go on her EVO VIII and se sold it to him cheap, since then running on that till he saves up

wow full boost at 2900rpm?? how much power was the turbo rated at? if he made 270rwkw im guessing its an 450hp turbo, only a guess but.

reason for asking I had a GT3240 on my gtt full boost at 3900-4000rpm and its rated at 550hp.

I'd say thats more to do with the tune and subsequent cam timing not being as good as it could be.

Small / Medium single on a RB26, way of the future if u ask me :P

Custom GT35R with cams should net full boost by 4000 with a 430rwkw top end.

No one talks about these setups, cus they're so special - hahahah :teehee::)

Edited by GeeTR
Small / Medium single on a RB26, way of the future if u ask me :P

Custom GT35R with cams should net full boost by 4000 with a 430rwkw top end.

No one talks about these setups, cus they're so special - hahahah :teehee::)

t04z hit full boost by 4000rpm....

if you were looking at 300rwkw, go a well made externally gated gt3076r, torque monster!!!

i was acutally going to use this kind of setup on stockish motor, but decided to go nuts with motor and the Z for powa

Small / Medium single on a RB26, way of the future if u ask me :P

Custom GT35R with cams should net full boost by 4000 with a 430rwkw top end.

No one talks about these setups, cus they're so special - hahahah :teehee::)

Dont forget the non-pump fuel aswell for 430rwkw from a GT35

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...