Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I like i have been looking at a 180SX and not considered a GTR-ST because i thought they were a lot heavier and would use more fuel. (to me its an issue, i want good economy if i drive easy)

So this guy who is selling a GTR-ST tells me that they can be more fuel efficient than a S14

to anyone out there who has experience with both models could you please give some FB

between a S13 and a gtrst

can you please tell me which was best for

acceleration?

braking?

cornering?

fuel consumption? best and worst IE is either one better or worse than the other?

cause i realise it comes down to a lot of factors, like how moded it is but as a general rule if you di the same mods, or spent the same money ........

Kev

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191110-are-skylines-more-frugal-than-s14s/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

do you mean GTS-t?

i own an R32, and one of my close friends owns an S13. i drove his car for a week before i got my car.

you can't really pick "the best". it's all down to personal preference. skylines and silvias are both good cars, but i guess it comes down to the engine you like.

acceleration, braking and cornering are minimal between the 2, all depending on mods and setups.

don't expect good fuel economy from either, but the s13 is slightly better on fuel.

being bias and all, i would go for the skyline :P

Edited by dmr

i own a 180sx and from my point of view i think it comes down to what you want in a car, not which is better, to make this kind of decision.

an r32 is a 6 cyl, yes, but its still only a 2L, r33's on the other hand are still only a 2.5L. depending on how you drive them, sr20, rb20 and rb25 will all have similar fuel usage.

the main thing that made me decide is the size of each car. you gotta decide if you want a smaller car (r32 or s13) or if you want to go for the bit bigger car (r33).

I can tell you that my R33 drinks alot more than my old S15. Bigger engine, more weight, of course the skyline will drink more. But it also has a tougher engine/gearbox combo, and has alot more space inside.

Drive them both, then make up your mind.

my 33 is fairly stockish, exhuast front mount...thats it..lol...runs standard boost, i chop s14's with front mount exhuast + more than stock boost,ive also beaten a gtir with a bit done to it, and a few s15's....makes me think what has really been done to my r33...but yea..fuel...if i drive it easy 450km to a tank has been neared...tough engine and box combo its well worth it tho..get a series 2 33 IMO...Good luck deciding tho..

my 33 is fairly stockish, exhuast front mount...thats it..lol...runs standard boost, i chop s14's with front mount exhuast + more than stock boost,ive also beaten a gtir with a bit done to it, and a few s15's....makes me think what has really been done to my r33...but yea..fuel...if i drive it easy 450km to a tank has been neared...tough engine and box combo its well worth it tho..get a series 2 33 IMO...Good luck deciding tho..

I call lies on this one.

especially the GTiR with a bit done to it.

My S14 had 175rwkw with the usual mods of exhaust, intake, boost and FMIC.

an R33 with the same power can't keep up with them.

GTiR specs:

curb weight - 1220kg

accelleration 0-100kmph - 5.9 seconds

accelleration 0-400m - 13.9 seconds

max power output - 227hp @ 6400rpm (or 171.5 kw)

max torque - approx. 290 nm

R33 GTST specs:

Curb Weight - 1390 Kg

Max. Power; kW/HP 187/250 @ 6400 rpm

Max. Torque 294NM @ 4800 rpm

accelleration 0-100kmph - 6.96 seconds

accelleration 0-400m - 14.30 s

so.. you had stock boost, exhaust and fmic..

he had "a bit of work"

how do you figure you beat a car lighter by 170kg and only making 16kw and 4NM less in standard trim.

same mods done to a GTiR would would tear you a new a-hole.

only way youd win is on a roll from like 120kms onwards..

not that this has anything to do with this thread.

as for this thread.

S14 is better than R32 (with RB20det) on power and fuel.

Looks - R32 GTST is a better looking car than an S14 series 1.

interior on the S14 is better than an R32 GTST

S14 series 2 is better than R32 GTST in any comparison.

Formula goes like this.

R33 S2 > S14A > S14 > R32 > R33 S1

here are my ones..

Stolen S14 with no insurance for the lose

92 R32 GTST

thanks for the repies guys.

I know some think its silly to consider economy with performance car, i of course if you out the hammer down you will drink heaps, but i need a car as a daily, fun to drive but with be easy on the wallet if i drive easy!

Hense the question.

One option i have concidered it to do an LPG conversion and then you can have the power and economy. LPG loves high compression and so you vould really boosts it. Just need a decent size boot to fit the tank.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...