Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I am new to the forum and would like to know if anyone has destroyed their turbo on a Skyline? I have read a lot about not putting the boost over 12psi, but I am wondering if anyone has done this and caused damage, or whether it is just a myth. I know there has to be a limit at some point, is it 12psi or are there people out there running their stock R33 turbos at 14psi or higher?

What are your stories of disaster.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19118-have-you-destroyed-a-turbo/
Share on other sites

Mine was running at 13psi quite happily turbo wise, although it was starting to ping a bit too much so had to wind it back to 12psi.

12psi I'd say is perfectly safe as long as you have a good tune and decent FMIC. My high boost has been that or 9 months or so with no adverse effects and some pretty hard driving occasionally. Depends whether its a series 1 or series 2 turbo.

As mine is a daily driver i often just run stock boost to and from places, so i wouldn't say i run 12psi all the time. People will also argue whether 10-11psi is more optimal in terms of overall performance too.

I have a R33 Series 1 and have been running 14psi for around 2 1/2 years now. The only problem I have had is the turbo sucked in and ate the rubber bung that the car yard put on to block the Bov return hose when fitting the atmo venting BOV. The same turbo is still on and going strong.

The previous owner of my car destroyed the stock turbo doing 15psi on his daily commutes to brisbane...tortured, replaced, and hi-flowed it in the end...saved me some big money :)

It runs 10psi now for daily driving, but can go up to 18psi, no sweat. Right now, that figure is a little too far fetched though

Skylines have been found by a lot of people to make better, more 'useable' power on around 10-12psi. Note 'useable'... No point running more boost if it aint doing much or downgrading performance and reliability. The fact of the matter is if you are going to boost, you need to mod and free up the airflow so that it is actually worth boosting in the first place. You'll find obviously that if you run a stock skyline on say 12psi, then have another with a cooler, exhaust, filter and tuned on 8 psi it will run a heap better and harder than the 12psi stocky. Boost does not just = power.

R33's really need an aftermarket ECU to take advantage or should I say unlock some decent power.

200rwkw isn't bad considering its a stock turbo.

The FMIC and ECU make a big difference to the R33's.

R32's pitty its not the same for the R32's. :)

Over 10-12psi the stock ECU starts doing strange power dip things.

I aren't running a computer now with my big turbo, cooler, exhaust blah blah and it still runs pretty damn well considering, however am expected to pick up around 25rwkw from computer they reckon, so on about 15psi tuned they said i can look at around 235-240rwkw which aint too bad :) But yes they do need a computer to run well, without one they jsut eat fuel and run very rich. Not good on the wallet believe me ha ha.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok thanks..that was my second question if i can somehow bypass this even with Nistune(that is all i have right now...aparat from stock ECU. So with some aftemarket it can by "bypassed" or make it work?  I know there is Link or Haltech (mainly used). We have ECUmaster here so i will gather some info about it.
    • Yes. You will need to get the original boost sensor and wire it in. That is.... if you plan to use a stock ECU - even a Nistuned ECU. The Nissan ECU will not operate correctly without it connected. And yes, it will do annoying stuff like you are experiencing. You will almost certainly be better off with some aftermarket ECU, than trying to hunt down rare sensors.
    • Ok so ABS/TCS is "not" the problem. Yeah i know now about the ABS with Nistune(i told that to the Nistune guy) but iam not 100% why or why i dont have ABS. ABS cube is in the engine (always has been) but i had braked couple of times rly hard and brakes just locked and scream. Does all Skylines have ABS cube? That boost sensor https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/367633-wtb-r34-gtt-turbo-pressure-sensor-pics-inside/ Is this it? I need to ask but i have a picture of engine bay and i do not see that (100% is not in that place) If i do not have this the car can do what mine is?(cutting around 4000 rpm) Here is the pic of my engine bay(only one i have) BUT i think i dont have that cuz loom was used from my RB20DE NEO and i know (obviously) that it does not have boost control or any wire to that...) so maybe that is the problem? (i dont know for 100% if that car where the engine is from had that)...but i dont have the loom from that
    • I'm with you here. It's either loom has an issue, OR, injectors are not functioning properly. It could even be they're just constantly dribbling, hence the wet, but not firing.
    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
×
×
  • Create New...