Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just brought a stock standard r32 gtr. (and I mean stock standard )

I'm not sure how powerfull or restrictive they are with the stock parts, but I swear I felt a

lot more kick in my old car ( old car = r32 gtst, fmic, exhaust, r33 turbo, hks opod filter )

Does this sound right??

I do feel that there is power, but I dont feel much pull. I heard that a stock gtr is supposed to be quick.

In first gear it lags unitl about 3000 rpm, then a small kick, then at about 5000rpm it kind of levels out

The revs continue to climb but only at a steady pace.

The same thing happens in second.

By third gear it feels quick but thats because it's already been an eternity and i'm already going over 1ookm.

The engine sounds fine but just sounds lioke it's working very hard after 5000rpm for not much gain.

ALL I'M REALLY CONCERNED ABOUT IS THAT HAVE I BLOWN A TURBO(S) OR IS THE STOCK SET UP VERY RESTRICTIVE.

It doesnt bother me if it's not quick, but I just need to know if it's as quick as it can be for the current set up.

Does anyone have any insight.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191343-stcok-standard-r32gtr/
Share on other sites

First thing you should be checking is smoke pouring out your exhaust if a blown turbo is suspected to be the culprit.

I cant comment much on the gtr stock as a rock performance, but as far as I am aware they are referred to as very quick stock, but referring to stock as upgraded exhaust, filters, boost etc. Thats when they crack the 12sec barriers.

How much power was the R32gtst putting out? Id assume around 185-190rwkw. That is still fairly quick in the lighter r32, probaly a mid to low 13sec car.

It is an interesting comparison.

Also it depends on your drivnig style. As we all know not everyone likes to be launching there r32gtst with the weak gearbox, so you may have adapted a similar driving style with the GTR. Go to the drags, rev it to 6000rpm, side step the clutch (if it can handle the power?) and im sure you will then witness what the GTR is all about.

I'd be interested to know what others think.

Also it depends on your drivnig style. As we all know not everyone likes to be launching there r32gtst with the weak gearbox, so you may have adapted a similar driving style with the GTR. Go to the drags, rev it to 6000rpm, side step the clutch (if it can handle the power?) and im sure you will then witness what the GTR is all about.

I'd be interested to know what others think.

thats a fair comment...

Becuase the engine sounds and feels fine, or very good.

And there feels to be a lot of potential with minor mods...but I thought I would feel a lot more torque with a stock set up, thats all.

You felt a 'kick' from the R32 as you had a turbo that was a tad laggy.

So it ramped up onto boost differently.

The GTR is stock, whilst they are not slow in stock form, they arent exactly a rocketship either.

I suggest taking the car to a performance mechanic and have them inspect the car if you are unsure of it.

You felt a 'kick' from the R32 as you had a turbo that was a tad laggy.

So it ramped up onto boost differently.

The GTR is stock, whilst they are not slow in stock form, they arent exactly a rocketship either.

I suggest taking the car to a performance mechanic and have them inspect the car if you are unsure of it.

Agreed any car with stock boost generally delivers power in a very linear fashion.

Dont take it out and thrash it, if there is a problem you will only make it worse- get it checked out by someone that knows gtr's and can check the tune as in the AFR's.

at least then you can drive your new car knowing its all good.

If you are worried I would suggest the following:

First up, check the timing. Insufficient ignition advance will make the car feel sluggish.

If that is ok then take it to a dyno & get it run up. Check the AFR's while you are there.

Then you will know for sure.

What you need to remember is that you very quickly get used to how "fast" a car feels - particularly a turbo car as it lacks immediate torque. As often as not a car with a flat torque curve will feel slower than one with an uneven one. Despite the first of the two being quicker.

Wait I know a guy with a r32 gtr with only pod filters (that he knows of) and it made 228rwkw not awkw. and runs like high 8's down an 8th mile (200m) the dyno may have been a little high maybe but it does pull away from my 200rwkw r33

Edited by RPR33

dude if it flatens out at 5k check your running 20deg of timing, some people 'tune' them to run on 'aussie fuel' aka 91oct and run them at like 10deg of timing to stop any chance of pinging. that would make it feel like it goes ok when the turbos come on boost then die in the ass just after.

thanks for all inputs...

I hope it is a timing issue and I also suspect it to be a fuel issue.

I dont want to touch the timing as I dont really know what i'm doing...

Gonna book in for a dyno and get the timing looked at

Once again, It doesnt bother me if it's not zippy because I intended on slowly building it up anyway.

At the time of purchase I had a workshop check it. compression test it and they also sais the car drove well..

The compression was (i cant remember exact) around 160 with only 5 psi diffence between all cylinders..

The only faults they could point were some minor leaks in the engine which should have been fixed for the RWC..

It's just disappointing because I thought I had something I could start fresh on....

However all may just be well,, wait till the dyno results and someone a bit more GTR knowledge to look at it.

Sounds dirty! I mean you should check the AFM's/AAC valve/intercooler/throttle body etc etc. because they all affect boost response and A/F ratios.

I'm no expert but common sense is you should do basic maintenance like that (esp. on an old car) before checking for turbo wear or anything else more serious.

The GTR should be zippy. You shouldn't have a doubt that its quick!

The only stock standard GTR I went in was really really disappointing. Was running stock boost, stock exhaust, stock everything - I struggled to believe it.... I had a semi-wanked up NA Honda which was pretty comparable in acceleration (dodges flames).

The new owner of the otherwise mint R32 GTR trucked on and did a full service, got it a very unrestrictive full exhaust system, pod filters and an electronic boost controller for it and ran 1bar of boost. He was pretty happy with it and told me I should come for a drive to see if I thought it was better - to be fair I didn't have overly high expectations after how horrid it felt before. Seriously, the thing lost traction when it hit full boost in first and had my whole hearted attention from that point forward. It felt like it was designed to be like that... like Nissan would have liked to have done it from factory but knew they shouldn't, so set it up so you really HAD TO.

Edited by Lithium

Yeah, when first got my car I got bored of the stock power very quickly, leaving me with the same questions as you. If it was really meant to be like that, or if my car had some problem.

Turned out to be coming on boost rather late compared to a friend's GTR. After a thorough inspection, it turned out that the turbo fins were kinda chipped and worn, but still functional.

A change of turbos, ecu, ebc, etc. and with a much lighter wallet, I got a 135rwkw gain at the time, without any extra lag :blink:

When it was stock it was dynoed at 165rwkw :P

Needless to say, I was stoked with 300rwkw, too bad that feeling of contentment didnt last long, or else I would be a much richer person now :blink:

Edited by Yawn
Turned out to be coming on boost rather late compared to a friend's GTR. After a thorough inspection, it turned out that the turbo fins were kinda chipped and worn, but still functional.

How did you find that out? Removed the piping around the turbo's? Cause i'm experiencing boost loss, wanna fix it asap!

Basically my mechanics singled that out as the problem from their past experiences and after checking everything else. I didn't actually take anything out to confirm that was definitely the problem.

So i just assumed that was the problem and starting planning for turbo upgrades. Only when the stockies finally came out did I find that out for sure.

But in saying that, I was going to change turbos anyway, so I didn't want to spend unnecessary money just to check if the fins were screwed and then putting everything back on.

Personally i think its suffering from stock car syndrome.

I drove an r33 gtr earlier this year and i found it very slow. I remember mentioning to Lithium on the net later that i was very dissapointed. My s14 was much faster simply due to the weight difference which i think is your problem here also.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...