Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bleed valves will always always always spike then return. manufacturers can argue this point till they're blue in the face but they're shifting the truth sideways... :(

dna make the best one that I have seen in practice with a significantly smaller, (but still there) level of spiking. boost leveles also remained steadier than the turbosmart ones they had there too...

i think they wanted 80 bux for the ones they had at the dyno day.

** I have no assocition with dna whatsoever. just calling it how i saw it **

Originally posted by Nizmo

yeah i have dodgy homemade one on my car .... it was like that when i bought it - does do the job but not as good as a proper one - lets just say its as open as it will go on my car :(

I had to drill my homemade one out a bit to let more air through. Now I can adjust between 7 and 15 psi. It hits 12 psi at about 3500rpm and stays on it all the way to the redline.

"does it bring on boost earlier"

Originally posted by 2fardown  

This is a very debatable subject.  I personaly did experience an earlier spool up but there are some experts on here that will prove otherwise.

No expert can prove that they won't bring on boost earlier for the simple reason that they do! OK, before anyone gets all emotional, they can never do as good of a gob as a EBC but they WILL help.

Read this, It is explained how bleed valves do it.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ght=bleed+valve

If your going to muck around with bleed valve systems this is a good thread to read as well.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ght=bleed+valve

My R32 holds 10.9PSI all the way to 7500rpm if I take it there.

With the Bleeder no matter what I set it to it would drop down to around 12psi. With the stock IC it would drop to around 12psi and with the fmic it would drop to 12psi. It is the turbo running out of puff.

The max I could get out of the bleeder (rwkw) was 155rwkw.

When I fitted the FMIC a lighter tune with less timing and holding 1 bar of boost to redline made 164rwkw.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...