Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

do u guys think its possible to guard roll 3cm?

ive just got my hands on some dirt cheap gtc's but they wont fit and ive worked out that its around a 3cm increase on the rears and 80mm on the front.

anyone who has done guard rolling could u give me some tips?

also how much would this cost? :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/191775-guard-rolling-limit/
Share on other sites

You can flare your guards 30mm, but it'll just gonna f**k up your guards and paint. On the S13's, a dent appears after flaring about 10mm. So it doesn't take much to f**k up your body.

Best bet would be to throw some negative camber on it with stretch tyres.

You can flare your guards 30mm, but it'll just gonna f**k up your guards and paint. On the S13's, a dent appears after flaring about 10mm. So it doesn't take much to f**k up your body.

Its not necessarily going to f**k up his guards, but the chances are there that it may happen. S13 guards don't always dent when flaring by more than 10mm, i've seen some flared 30mm with no dent!

R34NRG- What are the widths and offset's of the rims?

just raise your car a little dude... my wheels stick out by 3 cm's on the rear end...

stretch some tires on & ur laughing.

No point having shit hot wheels and having it sit like a 4wd. It needs to be lowered to gain the neccessary camber. Increasing the height will make it stick out further.

Andru, what happened to those 75mm widebody kit u were gonna get???

You can flare your guards 30mm, but it'll just gonna f**k up your guards and paint. On the S13's, a dent appears after flaring about 10mm. So it doesn't take much to f**k up your body.

Best bet would be to throw some negative camber on it with stretch tyres.

i heard s13s have the weakest guards there are and thats why they crack and flake alot.

Its not necessarily going to f**k up his guards, but the chances are there that it may happen. S13 guards don't always dent when flaring by more than 10mm, i've seen some flared 30mm with no dent!

R34NRG- What are the widths and offset's of the rims?

FRONT

19 X 8.5 +27

235/35/19

REAR

19 X 9.5 +24

245/35/19

No point having shit hot wheels and having it sit like a 4wd. It needs to be lowered to gain the neccessary camber. Increasing the height will make it stick out further.

Andru, what happened to those 75mm widebody kit u were gonna get???

i kinda bought 5k+ rims and spent another 2000 on suspension. so i dont really have the funds to go wide body atm. so i guess the next best thing is workn the guards

Rolling guards wont get you 30mm.

You need to install some flares or flare your guards. Either option requires significant work with painting involved and a big change to the look of your car. Just to fit some wheels.

yeh i know wat u mean but i just keep thinkin how shit hot its gonna be.....and i gotta do it lol

just some pics of the ones i bought

post-23512-1193437577524983320.jpg

post-23512-1193437590847368511.jpg

post-23512-11934376051967289538.jpg

post-23512-11934376211751254292.jpg

post-23512-11934376342054732188.jpg

Edited by R34NRG

Nice choice on wheels.

Those offsets and width don't seem to be that low or wide. Are you sure you need guard modifications to fit the wheels? I don't know 34 guards so please ignore my inexperience if they clearly don't fit.

I know I've asked you how wide your wheels are currently, but I've forgotten. How wide are your wheels again? I always assumed skylines had the same guard clearance as the silvias. I've seen a few S13's with ~9" wheels with 0 offsets and they only needed guards rolled.

Edit: The S13's would've had stretched tyres.

Edited by adam-__-

Yeah, from what I've seen in my calculations, there's not much you can do. You're gonna have to put on some stretched tyres and put some neg camber or just flare your guards.

I never realised how high of a offset you have to run on skylines. Like you said your current wheels of specs, 18x8 +35 with 230/40 are pretty much flush with the rear, these are 18x9 +15 , 225/40 with neg 2 camber on a 180sx:

post-32186-1194079689_thumb.jpg

With these wheels and tyres on your car, they'll stick out and extra ~35mm.

they ARE rolled...

you do realise rolling guards is only 'rolling' up the inside edge of the wheel? the outside of the panel doesnt change or move, thats called flaring.

and whilst flaring might be 'cheap' to do, it will need to be resprayed.

Yeah, from what I've seen in my calculations, there's not much you can do. You're gonna have to put on some stretched tyres and put some neg camber or just flare your guards.

I never realised how high of a offset you have to run on skylines. Like you said your current wheels of specs, 18x8 +35 with 230/40 are pretty much flush with the rear, these are 18x9 +15 , 225/40 with neg 2 camber on a 180sx:

post-32186-1194079689_thumb.jpg

With these wheels and tyres on your car, they'll stick out and extra ~35mm.

if they're genuine R34 wheels the specs are 18x9 +30 not +15

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...