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ive got one that looks the same as the burson one. i think i picked it up for 150 a couple of years ago. the rear nylon nut did wind off but that's only because i went hard out on it. it was a simple fix of don't be retarded and don't wind so much pressure on it all at once. it has worked for 2 other people who i've lent it to. no complaints

i wouldn't go and buy the expensive one unless you were a shop.

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i got one i think a paid around 200 for it

its made by a company that has the word "trade" in it, they should be able to look it up in the book and order it in

i found it to be an ok roller but, i improved it and now it never breaks on me

the cylindrical shaped block that the thread screws through sometimes slips out of the rectangular tube that it sits in as the cylinder isnt a tight fit, i fixed this by welding 2 washers exactly the same diametre (beleive it or not nissan head stud washers) to each end of the cylinder, and it hasnt slipt out once yet

  • 1 month later...
Hey guys, need help on guard rolling. I have just put a new front end on my car and the front guards need to be lip rolled and slightly flared. The reason why is the wheels have spacers front and back and dont want it to scrub.

Can i buy a tool that will do both of these? or when you roll the lip it flares the guard anyway???

If the tool is only 200 bucks or so, i will buy one and do it myself

I can do all steel fabrication,custom piping,tig welding and want to learn to do guard rolling! can anyone

help me out with this???, Thanks

Hello friend ,

Have you heard of Barts guard ?

Just now i came to know that barts guard come to your place and do each guard for something like $50 per arch.....

You can even consult them about buying which tool and for what price !!

  • 2 weeks later...

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    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
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