Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 77
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 3 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

ive got one that looks the same as the burson one. i think i picked it up for 150 a couple of years ago. the rear nylon nut did wind off but that's only because i went hard out on it. it was a simple fix of don't be retarded and don't wind so much pressure on it all at once. it has worked for 2 other people who i've lent it to. no complaints

i wouldn't go and buy the expensive one unless you were a shop.

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

i got one i think a paid around 200 for it

its made by a company that has the word "trade" in it, they should be able to look it up in the book and order it in

i found it to be an ok roller but, i improved it and now it never breaks on me

the cylindrical shaped block that the thread screws through sometimes slips out of the rectangular tube that it sits in as the cylinder isnt a tight fit, i fixed this by welding 2 washers exactly the same diametre (beleive it or not nissan head stud washers) to each end of the cylinder, and it hasnt slipt out once yet

  • 1 month later...
Hey guys, need help on guard rolling. I have just put a new front end on my car and the front guards need to be lip rolled and slightly flared. The reason why is the wheels have spacers front and back and dont want it to scrub.

Can i buy a tool that will do both of these? or when you roll the lip it flares the guard anyway???

If the tool is only 200 bucks or so, i will buy one and do it myself

I can do all steel fabrication,custom piping,tig welding and want to learn to do guard rolling! can anyone

help me out with this???, Thanks

Hello friend ,

Have you heard of Barts guard ?

Just now i came to know that barts guard come to your place and do each guard for something like $50 per arch.....

You can even consult them about buying which tool and for what price !!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
×
×
  • Create New...