Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would like 50rwhp more out of my s2 R33 gtst and would like suggestions on how to achieve it.

I was thinking custom exhaust manifold + plenum like what Brendan had done to his car. One mechanic said it would cost me about $5k.

Currently I have 3" exhaust from turbo back, POD without air box, high flowed turbo, hiflow cat, EBC set at 0.8bar achieving 252rwhp, heavy duty clutch, fuel pump, adj regulator, powerFC, adj cam gear and I think that is about it.

Mark

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19266-how-can-i-get-50rwhp-more/
Share on other sites

You have all those mods and only on 188rwkw ? (If my calculations are correct)

With those mods I would be -expecting- around 240rwkw -atleast- (probably need injectors).

I suggest you try a different tuner because something is deffinetly up !!

FYI im currently on 203rwkw (shootout mode) and 188rwkw (standard mode) with only:

12 PSI

FMIC

HKS Pod Filter (unboxed)

Full 3" Exhaust

Std ECU

Std Turbo

Definately get a decent front mount.

I have EBC, cooler, power fc, and full exhaust and put down just over 200 with stock turbo (at 0.85 bar) and stock fuel system (injectors hitting about 83%)

The change to the car when I put the cooler on was quite dramatic, well worth while.

The stock cooler according to http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/mall/ic07.asp quotes a Zoom test stating the stock cooler has a 7 psi drop at 7000rpm.

edit, the 200 I get is not in shootout mode.

benm.... ahhh.. the real truth is revealed..shootout mode :D you're the same of the rest of us here in VIC getting 185rwkw or so non-shootout.. and you have the 95 ECU which gives better ratios so you don't need the S-AFC like we do :(

...MRK25T with that highflow and powerFC you should getting a lot more than that.. do you have an FMIC? I'd assume you would? otherwise simple answer: that is what is holding you back

after fitting the intercooler, maybe you should consider getting the Power-FC re-tuned with someone else as the power sounds a bit low for what you have on the car

what spec's is your hi-flow turbo anyway?

these days, 'hi-flow' is a very very broad term.

I got the 95ecu. I definately need the S-AFC.

Why don't you rebuild your engine. It's probably down 50hp or so from being worn.

Most people don't take into account that their base engine is going to be a fair whack down on power after 100,000kms so mods to it is like playing 'catch up'.

Guys MRK25T has forgotten to mention he has a front mount.

Mark: You could get 200rwkw with the standard turbo so how you are only putting out 188rwkw is cause for concern.

Who tuned your car? Might be worth a trip down to CRD for a proper tune

Oops.

As Nick said, I have a FMIC already.

rev210, what does a rebuild cost and what do they do?

Tony, what do they cost (the greddy plenum)?

nick/ben/etc. I might go to a dyno day with you guys so we can compare apples with apples. I dont think i've had it poorly tuned but this is my first quick car so have nothing to compare it against.

Coming home from work tonight I blew away a hatchback style wrx with an exhaust without effort - is that normal for skylines?

Mark

MRK25T,

I'm not serious about the rebuild as an option, costs a fair bit. I'm trying to point out to others that engine wear takes it's share of the base power over time.

Seriously don't worry about the dyno stuff mate. The track performance is what matters. A stock R33 turbo line can only expect about 300hp at the flywheel if it's lucky and with a brand new engine. I've had a few people suggest that their 200rwkw means 350HP at the flywheel or so, they are ill informed. None of them have 1/4 mile evidence of this power either.

right now I reckon I'm under 300HP at the motor, best condition of tune it's ever had and alot quicker than any other stock R33 turbo line I've ever come across or driven. My engine has over 100,000kms on it.

So use that dyno you go to and as long as the tune your doing on it works out a little extra each time then you can be happy.

You might find that high flow turbo you got needs over 1 bar to work well also (verify this with the turbo builder). For instance the HKS units are generally rated at 1bar and go a little higher.

as something of interest for those who incorrectly try to compare dyno's to determine performance.

I ran 13.3@106mph with a 2.3 60ft, with an effective power band of around 4500rpm. Straight after I had it on the dyno ,not to look at my 'power' but rather determine a problem and it showed 230rwhp odd at 4500rpm. To tell the truth I doubt very much that I was at the time making too much more than that at the flywheel in total. The very strong torque band I had tuned into the car enabled the time.

so there you go. I had a whole 230rwhp(not that it matters) and did a 13.3. Perhaps people telling you that 250rwhp is too low should start addressing my quite obviously slow 1/4 time as well?

Originally posted by Steve

The stock cooler according to http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/mall/ic07.asp quotes a Zoom test stating the stock cooler has a 7 psi drop at 7000rpm.

Is this true? So if i'm running 13psi (plenum) with the stocko cooler, then my turbo is running 18+?

Farrkkk....

Regards,

Scott.

Luke you wont gain 7psi of boost because the wastegate controls the boost.

What it means is that for the plenum to see 10psi the turbo has to push maybe 13psi in the higher rev range due to the restriction of the stock cooler.

When that restriction is removed the car will still run 10psi just the turbo won't have to push 13psi to see 10psi at the plenum. Hence the air won't be as hot in turn you should pick up a little bit of power, it will be more noticable on warmer days.

Remember its not boost that makes power it is airflow.

Originally posted by rev210

....Seriously don't worry about the dyno stuff mate.....

Rev210, I am seriously concerned about your obsession with dynos :D

Alot of people agree that dyno doesnt mean a heap, when compared to actual performance. And the peak dyno figure means even less.

But, a dyno is one way to roughly compare power figures, and can assist with trying to determine if a car is performing near its optimum.

You talk of times, but they are not the be all and end all when you are trying to compare output of vehicles, as there is a much greater fudge factor that needs to be applied- ie driver experience, suspension, tyres etc - all adds up to alot more than the variation between dynos.

How many people can't except that you have been able to achieve the times you posted, because they have similar mods and can get no where near those times, or worse still, much more heavily modified and still cant match you times. How then would it be possible to rate the efficiency of the modifications, as you are not comparing apples and apples. Would you have seriously ever bought a skyline if someone told you, you could do a full exhaust, FMIC, management, wider wheels, and if you are lucky you will drop the time from 14.4(rated by factory) to 14 flat (what some people with these mods acheive)?

It would be like trying to compare a car driven by me, compared with the same car driven by peter brock around a circuit - chalk and cheese - and the figures would mean absolutely stuff all with regards to the perormance of the car.

Then there is the problem that alot of people dont want to take their car down the strip - and why should they if they dont want to? Should these people then just mod the car, not knowing what to expect (ie actual kw gain), or if the money they have spent is wisely spent, or if there may be a problem somewhere else, and where it may be? Not every one has the luxury of past experience, and an idea of what to expect, and then if that expectation is not met - investigating the cause and hopefully rectifying the problem - its alot like modding a car and then trying to squeeze everything out of that mod at the strip until you have milked it for all its worth, then do the next thing - just not on a strip, on a dyno. Even top drag cars use dynos for this, prior to putting the car down the 1/4.

Bottom line, while dynos are not perfect, their is not much else that can be used to compare apples with apples, unless of course you have another suggestion, and I missed the point of what appears to be an obsession against using dyno figures ever? :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...