Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 76
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

So onto the real reason for stretching your tyres if you are a drifter:

1. 99% of real drifters aren't sponsored, are poor and can barely afford to keep their cars on the road. Wide tyres are out of the question. Find tyres that your local tyre shop or service centre is throwing away (out the back, ask for em) and make them fit the wheel.

but, but- it costs more to buy the wide rims in the first place! they'd be better of just buying narrower rims and fitting the same tyres anyway if it was just a cost issue

Does this pass for a reason to have stretched tyres? :glare:

very impressive co-ordinating of wheel offset, ride-height and tyre stretch....but utterly ludicrous all the same :yes:

here's a couple of examples of where a stretched tyre is practical:

From the US:

s14fs01.jpg

From Adelaide:

DSC_0017.jpg

Here's an example of a "drift style" car with a 4wd ride height

post-42625-11890648342141230243.jpg

remember kids, stretched tyre and gap between wheel and car or 4WD style ride height = punch in the c**t.

Do it properly or don't do it at all.

I'm sorry to all the 'haters' but that second pic looks bloody awesome. As others have mentioned and as you can see, the stretch can enable you to fit wider rims or rims with lower to negative offsets on your car without having to jack it up to 4wd height or flaring the gaurds. having the stretch for cosmetic reasons is the same reason people choose a certain style of rim (why 5 spoke of seven spoke or mesh style for example) no one can deny that have wide rims makes your car look so much tougher than wheels with massive positive offset sitting so far in the gaurd it looks like an old citroen.

Wow how does that second to last pic get anywhere without scraping the f**k out his rims/tyres.

No scrape whatsoever

Cusco Zero 2 R coilovers on middle damper settings...its all about knowing how to build the guards around the wheels

but then again im sure you are happy with your 17x7 +45's

Simple, It rides so hard the guy is now 3 foot tall from spine compression. ;)

6" actually...but thanks for your concern

Didn't you know? Performance cars are about looks and wank lists rather than performance now.

why bother building drift cars these days that are super competitive? when someone with a $500,000 sponsorship package and no talent will wipe the floor with you...id rather rock my budget spec lookin cool than drop 30K into a car thats gonna be worth 10 in less than a year...youre forgetting ive got an evo for going fast...the soarer is just my "shit car"

and cheers R33silverS2

more pics for the haters:

21102007213.jpg

P1000992Large.jpg

P1000989Large.jpg

oh yeah its rediculously low and runs about 4.5 deg of camber at the rear too...get out your pocket protectors and calculators and work out how f**ked that is too

nerds

Edited by coprims

Also btw in regards to the original poster...Bridgestones will often stretch the best as they have nice stiff sidewalls :w00t:

the tyres on the pic of my soarer funky munkey posted are Bridgestone RE040A's (could be 050's)

No scrape whatsoever

Cusco Zero 2 R coilovers on middle damper settings...its all about knowing how to build the guards around the wheels

but then again im sure you are happy with your 17x7 +45's

I'm running 17x9.5 +15 on my 31 :w00t:

Find me another rim for that price in that size that looks half decent.

youre missing my point

you as a purchaser of chinese crappy wheels that becuase they come in a half decent offset and width just like 10,000 other silvia owners have no right to voice any negative opinions at those who make the effort to purchase decent 3 peice wheels and make them fit their car...

I hope this has been edumacational

kthxbi :(

coprims your mad! (in a good way)

haters have completely missed the point of my thread, i wanted to know how stretched you fellas are and what tires you think are best to achive this.

NOT why you are a loser if you stretch, but thanx anyway hahah you fags.

in my op, iv always been a huge fan of wide wheels (who hasnt) and not such a big fan of overly wide guards to fit them, what better way to achieve this???

my wheels are 18x9.5 super advans all round, 215/35 on rear, 235/40 up front. will change em all to 225/40 if i cant find 35 all around once they get shredded.

youre missing my point

you as a purchaser of chinese crappy wheels that becuase they come in a half decent offset and width just like 10,000 other silvia owners have no right to voice any negative opinions at those who make the effort to purchase decent 3 peice wheels and make them fit their car...

But they don't fit the car?

f**k me if I was gonna fork out $3k for rims I'd be sure as hell to get them in a width/offset that fits without needing stretched tyres/flared guards.

unless you have to AT A MINIMUM roll the guards on your car then your wheel fitment is not 100% right in my opinion

But thats because you are a fully sick drifter with ghetto stretched tyres, I want my car to handle properly and not chew out my guards, I also don't want to be defected. :yes:

you dont have to have stretch and massive camber for good fitment

put up a picture of your car so I can have a look...

also I dont know whats so hard for you to understand that my car does not scrub

front or rear dont scrub at all...on suspension compression ive got somewhere for the tyre + wheel to go in the guard...

it wouldnt be perfect if it didnt...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
    • OK, if it idles at 1000+ with the AAC, its not an idle airflow problem. The cold start valve just gives extra air when the engine is cold, but you have enough air without it to idle at 1000. I think you are back to a fuel problem, sorry. Can you see the fuel pressure staying constant or does it drop as the revs drop to a stall?  
×
×
  • Create New...