Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They aren't the same, the different dashes have different features. See: http://www.aimsports.com/products/mxl-chooser.html

Maybe only the type I am looking at then..The Haltech Track and MXL pista are very similar

  • Replies 72
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

They aren't the same, the different dashes have different features. See: http://www.aimsports.com/products/mxl-chooser.html

I think Jess means that the AIM's and Haltechs are the same, just rebadged. There are 3 different models in the range, and Haltech offers all three if I remember correctly.

The Racepak display looks like the same units again, is that the case?

My Stack is going in as we speak, I'll give you my thoughts on it next month.

Ah yup, I misinterpreted what he said, they are exactly the same. From what I can gather MXL is the provider of the dash and then each ECU company has their own version made, well at least that's how it looks to me. The Racepak ones are completely different, although they do incorporate many of the same features but at a much lower price. The way sensors are added looks a lot easier than other options as well.

That why I went for the Stack: ease of installation and ease of adding new items to it such as the lap timer, logger, video etc. It has a great loom

Thge Racepak look decent for the price though, considering the AUD is so poor right now making AIM's and Stacks even pricier.

The Racepak is still an American made Dash however I think Haltech has kept the price down to encourage more street cars to get on board the dash. However it also has very extreme applications due to its adaptability and easy logging functions via microSD. As I stated in the other thread there are still issues like Indicators, motor warning lights and fuel guage that need to be looked at before deciding it's the best. Which is where the Defi gauge excels as it has most of this already built in.

The stack to me looks very basic and not really functional for a street car due to the lack of displayable data at any one time.

I think if any of these dashes are in a pure street car it's an absolute waste of money. But for a street and track car I think the Stack has plenty of information.

It displays fuel, speed, revs and has warning lights for anything else that you don't want to scroll through to. I'm also having indicators added to my mounting panel, as well as a boost and fuel pressure gauge (pictured) as I didn't want to spring for the more expensive model. What is it you feel is missing on the street?

post-8405-1229904101_thumb.jpg

I think Jess means that the AIM's and Haltechs are the same, just rebadged. There are 3 different models in the range, and Haltech offers all three if I remember correctly.

The Racepak display looks like the same units again, is that the case?

My Stack is going in as we speak, I'll give you my thoughts on it next month.

Yep thats what I meant :( Haltech dash is cheaper than the Aim..

Where did you get your stack dash from?

I seen a Motec dash on the weekend, nice unit same size as a MXL dash

I like the Haltech Track dash ...I was going to go for the Aim Mychron 3 XG Log. but I have been put off the MYchon version as most said was very small unit..

It is more compact and thats the reason why i think if the features do what you need then its the best. It all good and well to say you want bigger, but i question whether they are any easier to read and they sure as hell are harder to mount. Too big and you cant see the whoel dash through thesteering wheel. MXL looks better and is bigger, but i still believe the MyChron is the better unit for my needs...so most liklely better for most. It is well laid out and a simple straight forward unit that is easy to read

Yep thats what I meant :( Haltech dash is cheaper than the Aim..

Where did you get your stack dash from?

I seen a Motec dash on the weekend, nice unit same size as a MXL dash

I bought it off a mate who had brought it in from Japan and no longer planned on using it. I was lucky I bought when the yen was over 100. I was also lucky enough to buy the lap timer from the states very cheaply, so hopefully it works!

The one thing to remember with the Stack's are that the accessories are very expensive (Lap timer is $500US online), so get the one with all the features you want straight up. The model with Fuel Pressure and Boost was over $1000 more expensive, which is why I got Greddy gauges to fill those roles.

Troy makes a good point about visibility behind the wheel. That's another reason why I got the Stack, great visibility.

Oh thats cool, I have been doing research and didnt find "the stack dash" looks good tho :(

The purpous we are buying the Haltech dash is so it becomes the actual dash..getting rid of the standard dash cluster and better than having a whole heap of gauges.

The data logging in the systems is awesome I think and very impressed.. cant wait to get one..

Well I think V-sport are the Aussie distributors for Stack, so you may want to speak with them and find your best option. I think the Aim/Haltech stuff will work out cheaper for sure though.

Stacks site: http://www.stackltd.com/

Shopping for a new dash is good fun, one of my favourite purchases! Enjoy :P

Not sure if this has been mentioned, but STACK distributors (like V-Sport in Australia) will not/can not support STACK dashes purchased from SARD in Japan. Apparantly there are some changes that SARD do to the dashes before they sell them. This info has come from a tech guy at V-Sport.

Mike

Will be interesting to see if that is the case in reality. I guess I'll find out soon enough!

Sorry man didn't mean to be a c..t about it but that is what I was told from a guy at V-Sport. Good luck with it, it is a sick looking dash. A digital dash is on the list of things I would like to get for my GTR one day.

Mike

noob question guys but dont your ECUs log everything, you go back and check it in the pits after your session? i know most would not time, but i remember when karting i ran a alfano digital dash and there was only one place on the track i got a chance to look at it which was on the straight. had time to see elapsed lap time, and peak RPM and then had to turn in. unless a warning light came on i just strangled it. the HP tuners software im running logs all engine sensors, and i have warning lights on the dash. At what stage of competition are these dashes necessary?

At what stage of competition are these dashes necessary?

I wouldnt say any particular stage..It's just what you want to use and personal taste..I mean they have a "street" version of the dashes..so just up to you on how much stuff you want to read on teh car and about yourself as a driver.

The Sports sedan we are building . It will be great for as can set up warning lights like you said and have it all package in one neat little unit..I like the Rev limiter display and the data logging it can do..We are running a "haltech" and what ever it is reading already I dont need to overlap..So I can have even more channels to read and log things.

We only race in club stuff but I think the dashes I'm looking at can help you find out more about the car and things about you as a driver and what you can improve on. Will be great for me as will get good advice on what I am doing wrong after sessions in the car.

noob question guys but dont your ECUs log everything, you go back and check it in the pits after your session? i know most would not time, but i remember when karting i ran a alfano digital dash and there was only one place on the track i got a chance to look at it which was on the straight. had time to see elapsed lap time, and peak RPM and then had to turn in. unless a warning light came on i just strangled it. the HP tuners software im running logs all engine sensors, and i have warning lights on the dash. At what stage of competition are these dashes necessary?

Stuie, the Vi-PEC has 4MB on board for logging...plenty for what i do...im looking at a display only dash for around $900 i dont see the point in paying an extra $1000 for it to do a job my ecu is already doing.

Sorry man didn't mean to be a c..t about it but that is what I was told from a guy at V-Sport. Good luck with it, it is a sick looking dash. A digital dash is on the list of things I would like to get for my GTR one day.

Mike

I didn't take it with any ill feeling mate, no need to apologise!

I just take what I hear with a grain of salt. I know that Stack dealers are not supposed to sell outisde their own countries, as some US and UK dealers wouldn't supply me to to distribution agreements, hence why I got mine from Japan.

Stu: My reasoning for going to the Stack in the first place was to replace the gaggle of guages I had on my dash. As you said, the ECU records a lot of this info which is why at first I bought one from a trader on here which was a small display unit. I decided I wanted to keep the package neater, and sold everything which paid for my dash so I could justify the cost. I also wanted the ability to time laps, hence my purchase.

Plus, I just really dig them :banana:

ECU doesnt tell you corner speeds, braking Gs, lap times. People often see an in car vid of me driving and suggest i use the wrong gears. Most common is that i stay in 3rd for slow 90deg corners, 4th for turn 1 at Sandown etc. I know its quicker as i can see from my corner speeds and lap times that its quicker, even though it doesnt feel quicker as the engine isnt buzzings its head off. You can tell where you are out braking yourself and affecting your exit speeds for corners etc. They are handy at helping you improve your driving which ECU logging doesnt tell you

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...