Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, finally imported and complianced my r34 with came with a few goodies.

Few things im concerned/need info on

1. Say for example i give my car abit of stick, ive noticed when i slow down and for eg turn into a street or whatever. The slip light flashes on the dash and for a few seconds the car dosent seem to respond when you accelerate. ( kinda like its lagging until the slip light goes of then it goes back to normal) would the fact that the cars got some sort of a/m lsd diff come into it . (which mind you is very F**king annoying, the car shakes like the wheels are about to fall of whenever im reversing or turning slowly) Also another thing the cars tyres have seen better days but still have some tread on them. if that comes into it at all. Mind you when turning the car isnt going sideways on anything like that which would probably cause the slip light to come on. Also the slip light situation dosent occur every time, but almost every time.

2. Cars also got a heavy duto clutch. Ive noticed once you switch the car on, and push clutch in. You can hear are sort of ringing noise from inside the cabin and pretty clearly outside aswell. Kinda like a bell goin of. Would that indicate the bearings or something to do with the clutch is in need of replacing or is that normal for an a/m clutch. (not sure whether its got single/twin plate etc etc)

any help would be great as i cant say im to educated with these situations

thanks alot guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193545-few-questions-on-the-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

that slip light is normal, comes on so you don't "lose control", but it does get annoying, which is why there is a little button you can press under the left side of the steering wheel (TCS) to turn it off, do a search, you can even buy a module that turns it off when you start the car as default, instead of flicking it every time.

Car does not give you power even if you floor it, until it re-stabalises. gets really annoying if you have stiff suspension and you're trying to get through driveways!

btw, if your car was just complied, Then changing the tyres should have been included as it is required

i see.. Thanks for that

another thing, also noticed sometimes if im giving the car abit of stick on take of or whatever and goin quick around corners. It has a tendency to sometimes stall. Anybody had this problem in the r34 gtt before or know what may be causing it?

cheers

sounds like you've got either a 1.5 or a 2 way mechanical lsd and a twin plate clutch, yeh just flick the switch, kinda gets annoying after a while though doing it every time you turn the car on, i leave it on so i dont get carried away hehe. but yeh mechanical diff's will chew out the tyre's quicker than normal lsd's, and multiplate clutches sound kinda like there are nuts and bolts rattling around inside the bell housing when the pedal is pushed in, car was most likley used for a bit of drift and/or touge in japan.

sorry ill just add this as well, you'll find that it the slip light comes on when backing off into corners with a mechanical diff cause they lock up on decel as well as accel and the slip light comes on to tell you the traction control is kicking in (hence the cutting the power to the engine) and the diff is probaly ending the comp those signals when it locks up on decel hope that clears a few things up for you :laugh: have fun with it but be carefull mechanical diffs can bite back at you if your not carefull and arent used to them, alot more aggressive than a standard viscous one.

hehe yehh didnt take me to long to realise they can bite back hard.

thanks for the insight

in terms of teh stalling, anybody got an idea of what that could be? seems to stall once in a while when i give it some decent throttle in 1st or 2nd gear and then slow down.?

cheers

hehe yehh didnt take me to long to realise they can bite back hard.

thanks for the insight

in terms of teh stalling, anybody got an idea of what that could be? seems to stall once in a while when i give it some decent throttle in 1st or 2nd gear and then slow down.?

cheers

If you have aftermarket BOV and it's leaking you'll have this problem.

yeh if you've got a vent to atmo BOV then that would most likely be the reason for stalling, to do with the air flow meter, i used to have an r32 with a atmo bov and it didnt stall an my 34 has the standard plumback so im not really sure how to fix it, just make sure its not leaking etc, try tighting the spring up a bit.

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...