Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The BOV is a 4x4 armoured personnel carrier designed and built in the former Yugoslavia. This eight-man wheeled reconnaissance vehicle, powered by a Deutz six-cylinder diesel engine, was used for internal security and military duties. The Yugoslav Federal Secretariat for Internal Affairs controlled a federal paramilitary force, the People's Militia, which operated numerous BOV-M armored vehicles equipped with machine guns, water cannons, smoke and tear gas launchers for crowd control and riot situations.

800px-BOV_M-86.jpg

f*k me, they didnt hold back on using the water cannons (in riots)...and it fkn hurts...

Edited by KISIN
if u want an atmo one, go a hks ssq. nothin beats the nice crisp chirp.

and the flutter at half boost:)

I've got a HKS SSQV, i'll change it for a stock BOV anytime. The loud chirp gets irritating sometimes especially when you let go your throttle at full boost.

Stocks fine.

The purpose of the bov is to prevent compressor surge, so the people who are getting the "flutter" noise, the air from your intake is going straight back into your turbo...so yeah your wearing your turbo down quicker. Yes, it is a bit of myth/fact but I believe it to be true, makes sense.

some get them because when you're running higher boost, the standard one leaks.

I got a GFB Stealth-fx (2ndhand) to help fix the leak in my stnd bov. its full plumb back. I dont mind it, not my kinda thing with the noise etc, but it does the job. Got it at such a good price I reckon I could make $ off it

Stocks fine.

The purpose of the bov is to prevent compressor surge, so the people who are getting the "flutter" noise, the air from your intake is going straight back into your turbo...so yeah your wearing your turbo down quicker. Yes, it is a bit of myth/fact but I believe it to be true, makes sense.

hmmm..

tell me more..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...