Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Is it just me, or do the designers at Nissan seem to just use a basic car template and change a few little things to call it a new car?

eg, S13 and R32's have quite a similar silohuette, as do R33's and series one S14's (look at the roofline and the nose). And the more i look at the new GTR, the more i start to notice cues from the 350Z.

Edited by baron25
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194435-are-nissans-designers-a-bit-lazy/
Share on other sites

its great for them - saves on manufacturing of parts

its great for us - makes for relatively cheap upgrades if you don't have the top of hte line model..

baron25 - you sound quite ciritcal of one of hte oldest tricks in the book..

i notice you have an R33GTS25, just remember that without the R33GTS25t and GTR there wouldn't be exhaust upgrades, brake upgrades, bumper upgrades, spoiler upgrades etc that are bolt on from the upper spec models.

personally i love that my V35 looks very similar to the Z33 350z and upcoming R35 GTR

Edited by WazR32GTSt

All car companies do this. Look at Holden for example, the VT and VX commodore are the same thing with the change of head and tail lights. People still buy the cars so they continue making little changes.

Evolutions of the same model I concede do look similar, and for reasons i assume of 'not broken don't fix it'.

But the point I was trying to make is surely it can't be that difficult to come out with a new design, auto shows are filled with new concept cars each month, some of which look quite impressive indeed. Why do these designs get shelved, and what's put out look like something that already exists. If you dislike the styling of one model, and all the others resemble it, it kinda switches you off an entire brand, regardless of what model you wanted.

It's a bit of a cop out to produce a car, then push and pull the panels a little, change the name and call it a completely different new car.

All of the car companies do it. It's called branding.

BINGO :(

All automitive manufactures have there own unique design language which consists of certain characteristics that are common accross all models in their brand. This ultimately mean most if not all models will have very similar design ques.

Just the way it is i'm afraid.

Edited by rdub_32gtst
so how did the subaru vortex fit into this "branding" :(

The odd concept with a radical design does come every so often...

The success of these designs then influence said companys design language and future models may/will draw from its design

Edited by rdub_32gtst

omg, what a revelation! someone call the press!

as has been said, every manufacturer has a style that is significant, or unique to them.

styling cues that identify a subabishisan as a subabishisan tend to carry through whole model families, if not the whole show room.

and sure the concept cars look great, but they have to build something that is feasible, marketable, and recognisable as a subabishisan. if subabishsan went from being boxy and a aggressive to soft and round like their korean competitors, no ones going to buy it, the fans of the subabishisan will be put off by this sudden change, potential buyers could simply buy the korean competitor and buy their mistress a new kinky outfit, and the hardcore might even switch to another brand.

change in a brand is good, overtime you modify the design of the car, tweak this line a littler higher, make the headlights a little softer, gauge reaction and go from there, make it more appealing to the prospective customers.

blah, its 2 am, probably doesnt make much in the way of sense. meh.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...