Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Not sure if this is the right section or not but anyway.

I done a bit of a braking test yesterday to see how well the abs worked (stupid i know, but i was curious to see how well it worked :P) so i was doing about 100kph then put the brakes on as hard as i could, while coming to a complete stop the oil light came on ( the little oil can symbol that lights up red on the top right hand side of the cluster) i didnt keep my eye on the oil pressure gauge so i dont know what it was reading.

Is this something i should be concerned about ,the oil level is just above the full line, my old r32 gtst actually done the exact same thing. I am using the stock brake setup with 235 front tyres, so somehow i dont think this would be enough to cause oil starvation while under hard braking but please correct me if im wrong.

Any comments would be great :(

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194663-low-oil-pressure-while-braking/
Share on other sites

Depends, If you were pushing it real hard before you started braking, then you've probably got a lot of oil in the top half of your engine, then the braking might be enough to make it appear as though the level is low?

Although I'd imagine that the GTS-T sump is fairly well baffled?

Depends, If you were pushing it real hard before you started braking, then you've probably got a lot of oil in the top half of your engine, then the braking might be enough to make it appear as though the level is low?

Although I'd imagine that the GTS-T sump is fairly well baffled?

Nope i wasnt pushing it, was just cruising at 100kph then put the brakes on.

it doesnt hurt to run it over the full line to keep it safe. there may be other issues with your oil control system to cause it to surge under breaks..

Yea i always run the oil level a bit above the full mark in all the skylines ive had, any ideas on what other issues there might be? The sump is in perfect condition (no dents etc) and i change the oil and filter every 4xxxkms ,i use castrol magnatec 10w40, the car has only done 86xxxmks.

As i said above my o0ld r32 used to do the exact same thing, is there anyone willing to go and test it on there own car to see if the same thing happens?

Cheers

the common oil pressure sender fault usually manifests as a problem with the pressure reading, but i have never heard of the oil light coming on with an oil pressure sender issue...

i would be keeping a real close eye on it

if you ever see the light again, shut the engine off immediately

but if it were me i would be considering getting an expert opinion, because if its the oil pump that is dying and you don't fix it, you could be up for a new engine..

the common oil pressure sender fault usually manifests as a problem with the pressure reading, but i have never heard of the oil light coming on with an oil pressure sender issue...

i would be keeping a real close eye on it

if you ever see the light again, shut the engine off immediately

but if it were me i would be considering getting an expert opinion, because if its the oil pump that is dying and you don't fix it, you could be up for a new engine..

the oil press light is driven by the sender also... so if thats faulty then its going to makle the light and guage read wacko

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wife wanted basket things in the wardrobe in our temporary house. Thought about ripping our the wardrobe and fitting the entire IKEA set, but it's a temporary house and we want to move in a few years. So IKEA advertises this as a 50cm unit, however the actually basket and rails measure 46cm wide. Only issue was depth, IKEA stuff is quite deep, where as the builder special junk is super shallow at less than 40cm. Send it, chopped the rails, then offset the mounting holes, job done, happy wife, less shit scattered all over the bedroom. Did the same to the other side too. Also drove the Skyline shit box today, dropped off oil at Supercheap Auto. I didn't realise they only now take max 2x bottles per visit. I visited 2x Supercheap Autos.  
    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
×
×
  • Create New...