Dyno Graphs

[MissR34]

mainly for Eug

LOL

101 kW - stock

118 kW - after exhaust

123.9 kW - most recent

Edited November 22, 2007 by MissR34

[dyken]

impressive, i made 101.6rwkw with pod, extractors and cat back

[GTS4WD]

Hay cara..

You couldnt of made them any smaller? Their a bit big.. I see too much

Looks like in the third one.. you lost some high mid (if that makes sence) power.. What mods were done in the second and third?

What was goin on with your car in the first one?.. its all over the shop! Slipping clutch? Missfire?

Edited November 22, 2007 by GTS4WD

[MissR34]

the third dyno graph the timing was adjusted to the result it is.

and with the first............i have no idea what was going on!

[Eug]

hmm... you can notice the VVL making the range much chunkier, it's quite cool.

i'm with Cris, the first graph is near useless - i'd hardly use that as a benchmark to call the 16kW increase. you have two runs, neither are alike (done in different gears?) and the AFRs are all over the shop for what should be stock. with proper AFRs i would have said that you would have more power in the first run.

2nd graph is a little better, but again different graphs in both runs??

3rd graph is very nice... and i agree, looks like you lost some mid-high there.

[MissR34]

different gears yes - 3rd and 4th i think but cant remeber the colours of which is which!!

[GTS4WD]

See how in the first one the graph is raising and falling irradically?.. Yeah.. not good..

OHHH!.. So the extra "hit" of power in the 3rd is VVL..

guh.. should of put 2 and 2 together..

[MissR34]

john (my dyno guy) didnt say anything to me at the time (with the first graph), but i mean nothing had been done to the car, hdnt even been serviced yet, as it was only 3 weeks after i got her that she had her first dyno run.

[UNR33L]

how the hell do ya dyno a auto ya put your foot down and it changes down a gear! lol

[Eug]

john (my dyno guy) didnt say anything to me at the time (with the first graph), but i mean nothing had been done to the car, hdnt even been serviced yet, as it was only 3 weeks after i got her that she had her first dyno run.

fair enough, he should have mentioned it to you that your fuel mixtures weren't so crash hot.

you can hardly claim a 16kW gain on the exhaust alone if that is the case. i'd think that there'd roughly be 5-10kW on cleaning up the AFRs alone.

how the hell do ya dyno a auto ya put your foot down and it changes down a gear! lol

dyno runs are normally done in 4th gear, that's the closest 1:1 gear ratio available.

i'm not 100% sure on a slush box, i think (don't quote me) you do the run in 'overdrive'.

http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0304tur_...hart/index.html

have a read of that, the last paragraph in particular has quite a bit of emphasis on our topic.

always, always, always request AFRs as the second axis, power is nothing if your car is running like shit. AFRs should always be as close to a flat line as possible. as you can see in your first graph, it runs very very rich towards the late rpm. remember lean = more power, but too lean = boom. tune's normally do have a tendency to run a little rich in high rpm partly as safety.

if you have a look at this sample graph below (random one from the net), you can see the dip in power as the mixture goes rich, and as it leans up again power comes back on. some food for thought.

[MissR34]

yes John did mention that she was running a bit rich with the first dyno graph but once the exhaust was put on it sorted itself out and was a normal a/f mixture after that (despitwe going rich every now and then)

i hope to be getting a power fc soon, so that will be good to see what difference that makes.

[Eug]

i'm sorry, but i'm not following. one instance you said that he didn't tell you then you say he did tell you.

it wouldn't have been the exhaust that fixed it, you would have either gotten it serviced and it cleaned itself up, a new o2 sensor, started using higher octane fuel or reset your ecu. regardless the power increase isn't from the exhaust alone.

power fc would be good if you can find one, for a cheap price and one suited.

then it's a matter of making it work, which may possibly involve rewiring the loom or changing sensors over on a GTT PFC, as they dont make one for the rb25de (neo included). at the end of the day you're looking at $1.4-1.5 for a powerfc with hand controller and another $3-400 for a tune. that's close to $2k for ~10kW. hardly worth it in my opinion.

how do you know it's going rich every now and then? you TT fuel ratio monitor would hardly be accurate without a wideband O2 sensor, please don't use that to base your judgment on things.

[MissR34]

john told me when i took the car back the second time , when the exhaust had been put on.

a power fc is always going to be better than a piggy back ecu. john had told me from day one that if i am going to get an aftermarket ecu, to get a power fc. there is one is NZL for sale at the moment for $1250, or about $1077 australian dollars, and to fit and tune is out 500.

[GTS4WD]

I beleive a Power FC is an option if you NEED a stand alone ECU.

Where you dont have an AFM, need continuous tuning, changing A/F ratios, spark, etc. etc.

I think for $1500 your better off getting a set of cams + tune on your current piggy back..

It will yeild far more power than what you will be able to extract from a PFC

Or I dunno.. how many more mods will you be doing?

Cams?

Valves?

Port?

Polish?

C/R?

If so.. instead of getting a re-tune after every mod.. or taking the car off the rd for 3 weeks.. then you may want to buy a PFC now. Save you money in the long run..

Edited November 23, 2007 by GTS4WD

[MissR34]

i dont have a piggy back ecu.

and down the track i will be getting bigger fuel injectors, cams etc which need an after market ecu for anyway

[mad082]

you can pull a fuse out in the autos which locks it into 3rd which (on the 4 speeds) is a 1:1 ratio.

also piggy back ecu's like the emanage ultimate will allow you to change afm, injectors, etc and will give the same result as a pfc.

[Eug]

also piggy back ecu's like the emanage ultimate will allow you to change afm, injectors, etc and will give the same result as a pfc.

bingo

as will an safc and sitc.

[GTS4WD]

BO! (as above)

Save the money Cara..

The extra money.. which is ALOT of money.. is by FAR better spend on cams/port/poslish/CR/Fuel pump/injectors..

Thats where real power is made by NA's.. Focus on the flow and volume of air entering/exiting the engine..

ECU tunes only enhance and extract the all the power that can be unlocked by your modifications.. If you have alot of mods.. the potential that can be unlocked can be quite large..

Spend the money on a piggy back.. and the difference spend on mods.. That way when you do get a complete stand alone ECU system there is a large potential of power that can be unlocked..

I hope this post dosnt come off mean or beligerent.. its been a few drinks now.. I just want to help

Its my half drunken 2 cents..

[unarmed_skyline]

Also i'd like to make a note that Power Fc's do not work on auto's so they're pretty much out of the picture. i think a few of the others can run autos but cant remember exactuly which ones, i have also read somewhere that it is possible to run a power fc and piggyback the stock ecu to run the auto shifting, i think you have to splice in the sensor wires and wire in the solinoid wires.

I would suggest your best option would be something like the greddy emanage blue piggy back or a motec 600 piggy backed, or as Eug said a SAFC & SITC but the sitc's are discontiuned and can be had to find.

[MissR34]

mine is manual