Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

^^^ your dreaming kid... "with great power... comes no economy" lol

indeed it was on standard boost, i have the readouts somewhere here!

ive never boosted that car man, never felt the need to

now with the gtr i dont think im ever going to lol

Werd to that grasshopper, as Confucius say "With great power comes great fuel consumption"....or as I say "Power=Fuel" :w00t:

how much does a tune cost at dr drift? its in dandeong yea? looking to get more power / economy out of mine.. i get srsly shit all in my n/a.

everyone seems to recommend dr drift i think i'll be going there :w00t:

He is in Brooklyn, just passed the city on the other side of the Westgate.

Edited by abu

just a little update seemed everyone has bigger stock power figers then me :)

so i had a look around my engine and found a disconected vacum hose from the boost solinode that goes into the cooler pipe.

seems to drive better and have more power lol

:)

Would like to see what mine makes just out of curiosity.

GTST with exhaust and boost tap to make it run bout 9 pound.

BTW, I have no idea of the difference between pound, psi, bar, etc. And am not sure that im using the correct term. I think the car runs 7 pound/psi/whatever as stock and now its on 9.

But im guessing around the 150 mark atw considering no front mount at all.

$120 mate he charged me for a full diognostic it sure was interesting :D

Whats involved in a full diagnostic? I have had my R33 for 4 weeks now and want someone to go over it with a fine toothed comb, then dyno it.

i went in today for a diagnostic coz my car always misfires. he suggested spark problem so i'll have to get onto that. while i was there my stock r33 made 140.1kw while stuttering lol. he said it wasn't a power run though or something like that. dunno wat that means? anyway attached a pic i took of the screen

post-2214-1196255936_thumb.jpg

i went in today for a diagnostic coz my car always misfires. he suggested spark problem so i'll have to get onto that. while i was there my stock r33 made 140.1kw while stuttering lol. he said it wasn't a power run though or something like that. dunno wat that means? anyway attached a pic i took of the screen

140 will make a few more when you sort the sparking issue...

fark my lemon i cant belive i forgot to hook up the vacum hose to the cooler from the boost solinoid its beeen off since i thought a fixed the leak and ran it on the dyno with it off too, :P

it seems to have more power and spool faster then i heard another hiss like a blow off valve while on boost farken old hoses.

ill have to go though every last hoes now......................

it seems like i get the hoses under normal boost pressure and the air finds a new weak spot in the system to escape.

when i bought this thing i tramped down some road and it sucked me on the seat and felt bloody awsome seemed to just keep pulling i loved it........

so i know what it can do arrrrrhhhhh :P

sometimes some 'stock' cars can seem to make more power than other 'stock' cars due to a leaning out fuel pump. I know cos this was the case with mine... Dealer just told me it was a 'freak' and that some just made more power - all it was doing was running lean..........

...looking to get more power / economy out of mine.. i get srsly shit all in my n/a.

I've seen so many people go and put extractors on, get their engines tuned up, do custom air intakes and exhaust systems, etc all in the name of getting 'better economy'...

This *might* work *if* you drove using the same amount of power as before, but with less fuel being consumed... but from experience if you have more power, you tend to use it... so worse economy!

i do suburban driving and drive about 30 mins to work and back and im lucky to get 200 k's from my tank, yeah i put my foot down a bit but not all the time it should be better economy then this..

i thought a dyno tune could possibly fix this problem..?

Edited by 4Door_33GTS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...