Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've just got a 19row oil cooler for when i put my new engine in and after looking at it for ages I cant find a good spot for it. Either side of the car behind the front bar the intercooler piping gets in the way. I could jam it between the thermo fan and intercooler but that will reduce flow through radiator, intercooler and oil cooler. I could also put it infront of the intercooler but its a big oil cooler so its half the size of the intercooler and this would also reduce flow.

Any Idea's??

Thanks,

Daniel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194984-where-to-place-oil-cooler-on-r32/
Share on other sites

I have in this order

A/C condenser & thermo fan

Thick ARC intercooler

Alum Radiator

One after the other in my GTS-R, and thats from the factory and i have no issue with airflow/temps or anything even on 35 degree days :D

And i'll fit a oil cooler next to the A/C condenser at some point

Mine is mounted behind the front bar on the driver side.

I think the oil lines run through the same hole as the intercooler pipe.

Do you have yours behind the piping or in front?

Pics?

The only way mine would fit on that side would be if i had it almost flat under the pipe or right back against the wheel.

Ive got the same problem on my R32 gtst. Ive got the IC pipe with large BOV and air horns on the drivers side, and my pod filter in the passenger side space behind the front bar. Ive also got twin thermos in front of the radiator (between intercooler and radiator) so no space there. I was thinking ill mount it flat (core horizontal to the road) underneath the radiator and fabricate a shroud that will direct air flow from the front of the car through the core. The shroud will also protect the core from damage.

Just an idea.

Shaun.

were stock intercooler sits if its a j.j type kit the lines should be long enough lol

or same spot but on the drivers side

Nah wont fit on either side because intercooler piping is in the way, its a B&M super cooler 19 row, fair big. was thinking about mounting it side on with a massive air dam and cutting out the front bar (moulding the air dam around the piping) so the air goes in through the front of the bar and exits out the side of the bar but this will still be fair crap. Would be ok if I could move the cooler piping but I cant move that either.

Nah wont fit on either side because intercooler piping is in the way, its a B&M super cooler 19 row, fair big. was thinking about mounting it side on with a massive air dam and cutting out the front bar (moulding the air dam around the piping) so the air goes in through the front of the bar and exits out the side of the bar but this will still be fair crap. Would be ok if I could move the cooler piping but I cant move that either.

Mine is a 19 row and it fits there with no drama's :yes:

I mounted my relocation kit on the drivers side and there is plenty of clearance onboth side with the FMIC piping and no need for air duct.

Can take some pics if you like so you know what i mean :teehee:

Hi just a little of the topic but do you really need an oil cooler?, i have a R32 GTR and with 300+Rwkw my oil temps dont get that hot and it takes long enough to get it to operating temps as well. Would there be adverse effects on cold nights when your oil cant get up to its required temperature which can cause premature engine wear?.

I have thermostat for oil cooler and yes I need an oil cooler because its a drift car that stays on high rpm all the way round the track.

In the post with the pic provided, the piping goes back under the intercooler, hence why you have room. My piping has big radius bends so it fills up the space. If I mount the cooler behind the pipe it will be very close to the wheel (I have heaps of castor). And I'm going to have a RB26 head so will be using gtr plenum.

Mounting your cooler at the back of the car will mean the oil pump has to maintain pressure for a bigger volume may not be a good idea... I could be wrong though.

Simon - I'll have to come and look at your water spray some time.

Mine is a 19 row and it fits there with no drama's :rofl:

I mounted my relocation kit on the drivers side and there is plenty of clearance onboth side with the FMIC piping and no need for air duct.

Can take some pics if you like so you know what i mean :O

pics would be good thanks

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...