Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

New engine is hopefully going to be ready Tuesday! so i need to clear this stuff and gather funds to pay for it! All this adds up to so much....Help!

> Z32 AFMs - $285ea

Brand new genuine Bosch. Selling as i dont need them right now, but probly even d-jetro later.

post-17897-1196491727_thumb.jpg

> Bosch Z32 plug kit new - $35

post-17897-1196492192_thumb.jpg

> R33 GTR NTK 02 or Lambda Sensors - $90ea

02 Sensors that i was going to fit aaaages ago before i had a PFC but now with new dumps no 02s are needed anymore. These new as well of course. Probly will fit GTS-t too.

> Skyline CAS - $320

Genuine Mitsubishi RB Crank Angle Sensor, suits all RBs im pretty sure. Thought mine was bung but turns out its fine! NEW!

> Skyline / VL TPS - $100

TPS (Throttle Position Switch) for RBs. Been sitting here for ages. Needs to be gone! Suits almost all lines me thinks.

> R32 Clutch Master - $110

PBR Clutch Master Cylinder for R32. Direct replacement for any 32 except GTR. New.

> R32 Stainless Catback - $300 MAKE AN OFFER!

Full 3inch Tannabe catback to suit any of the 32 series. (really must go)

All prices are ONO, these things need to go, but no ridiculous offers plz, not THAT desperate..

Please call or PM, too busy to keep track of the thread thanks!

Located Melb.

Thanks!

Mat.

0400 558 030

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195691-z32-afms-02-sensors-cas-tps/
Share on other sites

hey mate, i've got a spare $200 laying around for one of ur afm kits.

no really in need of one atm, but thought might offer if u need cash.

ed.

Just having a few q's about the Z32s...

Yes they are brand new.

Yes they come with brand new Bosch plug kits to suit.

Cheers!

Only one left now :w00t:

You should see the money Monday at the latest :nyaanyaa:

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
will the exhaust suit a r32 GTR?

Any pics?

Yep suits GTR.

Pics: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...html&hl=mat.

If interested i can get a few more as it is off the car now.

PMs replied.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...