Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

As the topic states I was wondering if anyone had inside knowledge of how to clean and engine bay and make it look clean? I can never get mine to look as good. but all i really use is degreaser at most.

Also whats the stuff used to make the black plastic have a shiny almost wet look? armourall?

Any help would be great. thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/195778-engine-bay-cleaning/
Share on other sites

I used degreaser, washed that off @ carwash, then wnet over all rubber with silicone.

After i gave the bay a wash though my boost guage was reading 1bar @idle and boosting all over the place. Car was fine, but the gauge was all over the place. Sorted itself out in a day or so though. Weird.

Armorall is not good don't go near the stuff. People will defend it and say it makes their dashboard look good. The problem is once you start applying it you cant stop or it dries out and makes whatever you put it on age faster and look awful. No pro detailers use Armorall for this and other reasons.

As for cleaning the engine bay. Degreaser is good for overall clean to start with but it doesn't get much real dirty stuff clean.

I use a few things for really dirty engine bay areas:

1) Simple Green concentrate. I don't know what's in it but spray it on concentrated for tough dirt or dilute it and spray it everywhere. Leave it go a few minutes max and rinse it off. I think you should be able to get it at supermarkets but I had to get it from Bunnings. The green bottle is the one to get.

2) Meguires non-acid wheel cleaner. This gets next to everything off everything. I again don't know what's in it but it cleans very well and I suppose it's non-acid so hopefully is ok to use on most things. Don't just spray it everywhere though it's more of a spot product.

3) Other more aggressive wheel cleaning products. I would never just spray this stuff on the engine bay in general but in very limited spots this might work better than mequires.

4) To clean any zinc coated metal item like bolts, brackets etc I use WD40 and a soft rag. Spray lots of WD40 (make sure you don't overspray on other items - use a rag behind whatever you're spraying) and wipe it all off.

I clean of any residue from any of these cleaners with some non-residue aerosol cleaner like CO contact cleaner but only if I can't get it off with a rag very easily since CO contact cleaner is $20 a can.

Engine bay metals, plastics and well....................most things under the hood, i used big kevs biodegradable stainfree stain remover worked a treat and most importantly.................

Im excited!!!!!

poor joke i know but had to say/write it!!!

but seriously it really worked well guys give it a go!!

Ohh and for the dash (and this one works the best)..try a dash mat!!!

EMZ

Edited by EMZ R33

I think i might go try the meguires stuff. I was quite impressed with their wax, its just expensive thats all.

EMZ R33. Big kev is dead. sorry to say. lol

Now I just wanna get the plastics to have that wet/shiny look. hmm

Here's a bit of my input:

Polished Metal

California Custom Purple Metal Polish for all chrome or polished metals. It's made in the US and is a bit tricky to find over here in Australia. Anyone that has used it always says its the best metal polish they have ever used.

Exterior plastics/rubbers

Mothers Back To Black is very good however leaves a bit of a sticky film on the area and it attracts dirt very easily after a bit of a drive. Autoglym Vinyl and Rubber Care seems to be a bit better with not leaving such a sticky residue.

Paint

As for the paint in the engine bay (pretty much the same products you would use on the outside of the car). Obviously after getting rid of all the grease and dirt, Autoglym Super Resin Polish or if you have a dark coloured paint (ie. not white) Autoglym Ultra Deep Shine.

With me owning a white car and my old man having a black car I have used a lot of car care products, mainly due to the fact i get them cheap through work and these ones i have found to be the best in their particular area. Obviously there are hundreds of different products and if you are stuck on choice go either Autoglym, Mothers, Bowdens or Meguiars. All are great brands and easily available in most stores.

Edited by PM-R33
I think i might go try the meguires stuff. I was quite impressed with their wax, its just expensive thats all.

EMZ R33. Big kev is dead. sorry to say. lol

Now I just wanna get the plastics to have that wet/shiny look. hmm

Yeah i know dude, i spoke to him at the clipsal 500 the year that he died....................and yeah his products are still out and they still work a treat!!!

EMZ

I managed to buy a bottle of the Meguiars wheel spray on the weekend. that worked alright on getting dirt off the painted bits, but the blacks still look dull and on the tappet cover there is still caked on grease i just cannot get off.

Ill keep trying and ill update with what works

For stained areas in the engine bay, i have used that citrus based oven cleaner sprayed onto a wet rag and used ONLY as a spot cleaner. Works really well but you need to make sure you rinse it really well afterwards.

As for the black stuff. I have used this stuff to great effect both inside the car and out

Carplan_Black_Trim_Wax__5344039.jpg

Ive used both the black trim wax and the mothers back to black. It just doesnt last long enough and my window seals go that whiteish colour again. Forever black was heaps better, cant remember who makes it.

EDIT heres a link

http://www.autogeek.net/forblacbumtr.html

Edited by hazerb30
  • 2 weeks later...

bring back a old thread instead of reposting!!!

just a quick question.. my engine bay is full of dust cause we were renovating the back yard.

no i can smell dust coming into the car through the vents. im going to get compressor and blow out all the dust in the engine bay.

now after i do that i wanted to give it a quick rinse with the high pressure hose.. is it okay to just spray it in there or do i have to cover the coil packs etc.

thanks. >_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...