Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A.D.I.D.A.S,

I would read through the ads on the trading post http://www.tradingpost.com.au/ as well as your local paper (although you're from Dubbo, maybe try a Sydney paper instead) and you'll start to see what certain models go for. Have a look in our for sale section on here too. If you don't want to get ripped off, just keep an eye on the "market" and you'll know straightaway when someone is asking way too much!

As for km's...try to ignore them, the condition of the car is far more important. As well as the fact that they might not be the actual km's :D

I could have bought another 10 Ladas instead of the GTR :P

That's 15 tonnes of cold-war street weaponry! Did I make the right choice...

Oh - and on the subject of KMs: if the car has had a replacement instrument cluster (ie: stock to Nismo 320) then the true total KMs of the car will be hard to know.

Originally posted by Strich9ine

I had a 1997 sonata previously, bought it for $14,000, sold it for $7500 2 years later.... guess who got ass-raped ?

as for my R33..... :P not saying

Bought a 1994 R33 GTS-4 Non-turbo with few mods (Blitz ECU, Struts, Pods and adaptors) for $19,000, sold after 17 month later for $10,500... ;)

guess who got ass raped? eh?

reasale for imports R sucks!!! :D

cheers

Joe

Originally posted by Pva_Glue

Bought a 1994 R33 GTS-4 Non-turbo with few mods (Blitz ECU, Struts, Pods and adaptors) for $19,000, sold after 17 month later for $10,500... :D

guess who got ass raped? eh?  

reasale for imports R sucks!!! :P

cheers

Joe

I think there has just been a flood of them lately as people are starting to realise how easy and cheap it is to buy your own from the auction yards in Japan. Two years ago I didn't think it was something you could do yourself, but now I (and lots of other people) know better.

Prices seem to have settled over the last year or so - R33 GTS-t's are going for roughly the same as they were this time last year ($16k for a '93 model, $28k for a '97 model and everything in between). On my insurance policy the agreed value is exactly the same as it was last year too.

Also, consider the owner of your old car - if it devalues the same amount again in the next 17 months he'll only be able to sell it for $2000. I don't think that's likely.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...