Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok i have a toyota camery also called a scepter wagon ( automatic ), the problem is when stopping at the lights the car tends to shake or raddle? and if i put it into neutral it goes away? im not to sure what it is, but i want to find more info on the problem before i take it into dodgy mechanics.. cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196482-car-shakes-when-stoppinghelp/
Share on other sites

needs a 3S-GTE conversion.... LOL

nah, try cleaning out your IAC, and try doing a compression test on your motor.. I had a Celica once, with the 5S-FE heap of shit in it and the head gasket blew at 190xxx km, sick idle, no power.

try to research on coilpacks cuz i got a friend that drive a r34 gt and have similar problem. He found out it was his coilpack and spurg plug to replaces but im not sure how exactly how camery work maybe diff to skylines. im not garrentee ya it will fix that problems.

Good luck!

  • 4 months later...

hey guys sorry to dig up teh old post, i forgot i posted on here for help on the car?, anyways just a update, i got my checked for WOF and it failed coz of engine mounts, but that didnt solve the problem, andther thing is when you stop at lights, the rpm remains still it doesnt move at all, but car still rattles or shake... BUT i notice one thing, when at stop at lights i turned on the air con and the shake tend to be less shaker then then the air con off? im going to get a ssecond hand IAC and see how it goes...

any help will do

cheers

Ha i rem this post.

So is it shaking the ONLY thing it does? Sure its not idling on a few less cylinders then it should be?

Tried moving your head around the engine bay when its occuring? Try zeh old screw driver to the ear trick?

  • 3 months later...
Ha i rem this post.

So is it shaking the ONLY thing it does? Sure its not idling on a few less cylinders then it should be?

Tried moving your head around the engine bay when its occuring? Try zeh old screw driver to the ear trick?

update : now my car dies out when cold in the morning, it goes when its warm? and yes the rpm drops once you put it in drive, but slightly goes up when in neutral? hehe

thanx

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...