About To Embark On Some Mild Mods - Advice Pls!

[rubba]

So I have finally decided to do some of the more basic performance mods to my stagea and just wanted some advice on the whole procedure.

I don't mind getting a bit dirty and having a go myself but I am a stranger to forced induction as my last car was a Hemi powered 1970 Valiant Coupe which was far simpler You gotta start learning somewhere though right.

So to start with, for now I do not plan on touching the turbo so it is completely stock as is the entire car. I'd like to push up the boost a bit so what is a decent safe level to aim for?

The list to do:

Boost gauge

Pod filter

BOV

FMIC

Exhaust

Auto shift kit

Boost controller

Boost gauge I need to attach to a line somewhere, where would the most convenient line be to tap into? Also it needs to run through the firewall, where should I be looking for a grommet to pass the line through? Also it obviously needs to be wired to illum so it lights up with lights on, where have you guys spliced it in?

Pod filter seems simple enough in theory, remove airbox, the pod should come with an adapter plate to bolt onto the AFM yes? Is is as simple as that?

BOV... just replaces the stock valve yes? Is it as simple as unbolting the stock one and bolting up the new one and connecting up whatever came off the stock one to the new one and away you go? If I buy a used one will I need to get/make a new gasket?

Some are pretty cheap and nasty and some are very expensive... what are you paying for exactly? Do shitty ones start leaking off boost when they should not be? Or should I not be concerned if I only plan to run only fairly low boost in the grand scheme of things?

FMIC seems pretty straight forward - take off front bar, remove the side mount, attach the FMIC on the front and get all the piping in the right place and clamp it up to turbo and intake. Anything I am missing?

Exhaust - take it to shop and say gimmie new exhaust pls and hand over cash.

Shift kit - shop job as above

Boost controller - electronic or manual? Obviously there is a rather large price difference here between the 2, should I be spending that extra money for an electronic controller if I am only pushing it up a small amount?

I understand the principle behind the BC that its fooling the wastegate into staying closed but it gets a bit confusing for when you start getting into the electronic stuff. From reading the DIY thread there is a solenoid there at the moment thats dual staging the boost levels ~4-5psi till 4500rpm then 7 after, does this get removed for a manual controller/electronic controller? One of my mates runs a 180 with a $30 Turbotech controller that he swears by and says anything else manual is poo so thats all I have to go on.

I'd appreciate any advice/suggestions so anyone kind enough to reply to that epic novel thanks in advance

Edited December 6, 2007 by rubba

[rb26stagea]

I never really touched the RB25, so I'm not much good for safe boost threshold, but the rest of the info seems to be pretty much on the money. There are a few things to look out for: it can be much easier in the long run to purchase a complete intercooler kit from a well known company, as these are easy to fit with minimal fuss (no/very little cutting required), and they usually have all the clamps, hoses, brackets for your car already there.

Also, by fitting a freer flowing exhaust and intercooler, you will normally gain a couple of pounds of peak boost, which can cause you to hit the factory boost cut all the time, unless you fit a boost controller at the same time (not too sure what the RB25 boost cut is, but most of the guys on here can tell you). Either that, or you have to drive around at a max of 1/2 throttle or so, which defeats the purpose of the mods in the first place...

Shift kit is a little out of my experience, but once again, most guys here will give you the lowdown on the auto box.

Also,

You might want to think about tweaking the a/f raio a little as well. If you don't want to go the whole hog and buy a complete new management unit, an SAFC or similar should be ok with mild mods...

Good luck with it: will hopefully see you on the next QLD meet, and check out your car

[captinsane]

40 bucks for a boost tap - don't run above 10-12 psi daily or it will say goodbye to you.

[rubba]

Just Jap have some specific Stagea FMIC kits, that was what I was looking at getting.

Others on here have used the r34GTT kit on their series 1 stags but I haven't heard anything about the stagea kits on here anyway.

Also with the boost controller I like the idea of at least a dual stage controller if not electronic as this is my daily driver and having it always run on 10psi for regular driving seems like a waste of fuel and I don't really want to have to fiddle around with the knob in the engine bay to wind it up and down.

Edited December 6, 2007 by rubba

[darrinspencer]

Boost gauge

Pod filter

BOV

FMIC

Exhaust

Auto shift kit

Boost controller

1. Boost gauge not need if you get a electronic boost controller, as the tell you what boost you are running

2. With the mods you are talking about, use a aftermarket drop in panel filter in the air box. will work better as you will not be sucking hot air from engine bay

3.BOV not needed unless yours is faulty. If you want the sound with a atmo bov, you will get stalling problems with factory ecu.

4. FMIC, R33 or R34 fmic kits fit fine, no need for a stagea specific one unless they are the same price.

5. Best get a turbo back 3 inch and hiflow cat for best results, opposed to just cat back. Can only get R33 gtst dump pipes and not all of them fit. No one makes Stagea specific dump pipes.

6. MV auto shift kit. They are in SA

7. get a good EBC, holds boost better then bleed valves.

Do not run more than 12 psi and turbo will last if in good condition. The ECU will go into R & R. ie over rich, cut timing. Will need a piggy back fuel igition computer like safc or e-manage etc on auto's. If your car was manual, you could go stand alone ecu

[exitSTAGEAright]

OK .. my two cents worth !!

this is what I have done .. total cost $2k including install and tuning on dyno .. car is 153Kw at the wheels at 10psi boost

Air filter - K&N panel replacement filter for $70. Same as commodore (pre VT I think). Part number would be in the stagea parts list. Keeps it looking more stock.

Boost controller - Turbotech mechanical boost controller. They are not sexy but at $30 they do the job. Search threads for SK's 5 minute boost trick, you can swap the pipes around on the current soleniod to get 7-8PSI all the time as a start. And it is not the BS stuff about earthing the soleniod, etc. This would be worthwhile to do if then getting a turbotech and can do before getting a proper tune if you want. Once all the other mods are on, then up the boost to 10-12psi max. Easy to install yourself.

Exhaust - 3 inch all the way from turbo, BOS dump pipe and metal cat. Look for BOS group buy or even just call them, should around $750. I got a second hand trust cat back exhaust from forums for $200 and cost $90 to mod and fit it to my stag. Requires some cutting and adding pipes. Otherwise custom cat-back about $5-600 from muffler shop

FMIC - if not going to increase standard boost very much then can consider series 2 stagea or R34 skyline sidemount intercooler. Fits exactly where current one is but about 20% bigger. I got one for $200. FMIC setups are getting cheaper though and would be best if in a hotter climate or towing, etc.

Air/Fuel Computer - Apexi SAFC II or Neo for $3-400. This can be tuned once you install exhaust/air filter/intercooler and fix up the stupid-rich tune on the car and will get you better economy. Easy to install yourself if mildly electrically minded. Search threads for SKs tutorial on it. Has to be tuned on a dyno though.

Fuel Pump - get a R32 GTR pump if you can, should be on the forums for under $200. Just plays it safer if upping the boost and leaning out the mixtures since fuel supply becomes more critical. Easyish to put in, access hatch is under floor of boot. You will just scrape the crap out of your knuckles !

Boost gauge - Whatever blows your hair back. If money is no option then Defi are sweet as !! Alternatively, just get the tuning shop to set boost and don't worry about a guage at all

Not really needed stuff.

BOV - standard is totally fine, unless you are looking for the 'bling' and want a wanky whoosh sound every time. No performance benefit here, save the $$$

Auto Shift Kit - MV Automatics in SA are the people apparently. Can loose the smoothness of changes though.

Anywho, for $2k you will get about 40Kw extra at the wheels, maybe a bit more. Next stage would be a hiflow turbo which would get about the same gain (with extra boost) and a FMIC for me, so another $2k really and should see close to 200Kw at the wheels.

Brakes and suspension are probably more important than extra power right now though.

have fun anyway mate,

Stu

So I have finally decided to do some of the more basic performance mods to my stagea and just wanted some advice on the whole procedure.

I don't mind getting a bit dirty and having a go myself but I am a stranger to forced induction as my last car was a Hemi powered 1970 Valiant Coupe which was far simpler You gotta start learning somewhere though right.

So to start with, for now I do not plan on touching the turbo so it is completely stock as is the entire car. I'd like to push up the boost a bit so what is a decent safe level to aim for?

The list to do:

Boost gauge

Pod filter

BOV

FMIC

Exhaust

Auto shift kit

Boost controller

Boost gauge I need to attach to a line somewhere, where would the most convenient line be to tap into? Also it needs to run through the firewall, where should I be looking for a grommet to pass the line through? Also it obviously needs to be wired to illum so it lights up with lights on, where have you guys spliced it in?

Pod filter seems simple enough in theory, remove airbox, the pod should come with an adapter plate to bolt onto the AFM yes? Is is as simple as that?

BOV... just replaces the stock valve yes? Is it as simple as unbolting the stock one and bolting up the new one and connecting up whatever came off the stock one to the new one and away you go? If I buy a used one will I need to get/make a new gasket?

Some are pretty cheap and nasty and some are very expensive... what are you paying for exactly? Do shitty ones start leaking off boost when they should not be? Or should I not be concerned if I only plan to run only fairly low boost in the grand scheme of things?

FMIC seems pretty straight forward - take off front bar, remove the side mount, attach the FMIC on the front and get all the piping in the right place and clamp it up to turbo and intake. Anything I am missing?

Exhaust - take it to shop and say gimmie new exhaust pls and hand over cash.

Shift kit - shop job as above

Boost controller - electronic or manual? Obviously there is a rather large price difference here between the 2, should I be spending that extra money for an electronic controller if I am only pushing it up a small amount?

I understand the principle behind the BC that its fooling the wastegate into staying closed but it gets a bit confusing for when you start getting into the electronic stuff. From reading the DIY thread there is a solenoid there at the moment thats dual staging the boost levels ~4-5psi till 4500rpm then 7 after, does this get removed for a manual controller/electronic controller? One of my mates runs a 180 with a $30 Turbotech controller that he swears by and says anything else manual is poo so thats all I have to go on.

I'd appreciate any advice/suggestions so anyone kind enough to reply to that epic novel thanks in advance

[Stinky Rooster]

can I suggest that if you are going to crank up the boost on the std turbo you go the cheaper/much easier option of the R34 SMIC, and if you live in the hotter areas than look at a water spray for the SMIC. Unless you are going the whole hog (hi-flow etc) then a FMIC is kinda overkill for your application and MAY just induce a little more lag.

BOV are more trouble than they are worth and will just attract unwanted attention from v-tec yO! boys and teh popo.

I drove a stagea once with a pod, and apart from doing nOTHING AT ALL for the performance, gave it a really annoying induction noise. Novelty value lasted about 30 metres into the drive and the noise almost put my wife off owning a stagea at all.

My pick would be a bit of suspension work and a shift kit straight up, then the zorst and manual boost controller

thats just my 2cents anyway,

[rubba]

Thanks for all the info so far guys, has been very useful

Search threads for SK's 5 minute boost trick, you can swap the pipes around on the current soleniod to get 7-8PSI all the time as a start.

I tried to find this but no luck so far I have seen the grounding tick in the DIY thread but if theres a better way to do it then I am all for it!

I may drop in a highflowed turbo eventually which is why I figured I may as well put a FMIC in.

Edited December 6, 2007 by rubba

[_Ryan_]

Apex'i panel filter, 80$ from www.accessauto.com.au access autoworks is a sponser on here, non oiled, K&N oiled type can foul the AFM.

jaycar IEBC and DFA + handcontroller, ~200 for all the kits.

R34 SMIC, alexcim has one going for 150, PM him an offer. i would use one over a FMIC, as it doesnt restrict air to the radiator.

Full exhaust of your choice, dont forget the cat, budget 1250 all up

BOV is a waste of money, causes driveability issues due to the AFM counting air going in that is going out the BOV, so runs very rich on lift off.

On the firewall end of the inlet plenum is a little rubber slip over a nipple, you should be able to put some vac line on it for your boost gauge.

I would personnally be doing a Transmission cooler and auto shift kit before power mods, i would do the filter and SMIC next. Then Sydneykid suspension package and some decent pads with RDA group buy rotors, Then exhaust/EBC/DFA=Tune

-Ryan

[stasis]

ok my turn.

1. run a higher boost at a constant value i think its 14 osi you can see on the DIY section for the boost. Then probably its worth while to get the FMIC.

2. Get an exhaust full 3" including the cat and the front pipe. get the front pipe from just jap they got a cheap one with a screamer i think.

3. Pod filter is really useless unless you have an cold air intake if not it will just suck the hot air from the engine bay and you will actually lose power.

4. save to get the GTRS turbo or an SS.

Tnagles got a very nice set for the money and wolverine too.

[rubba]

What exactly is a screamer pipe?

From the pics it looked like the wastegate pipe dumps straight out rather than going down the exhaust.

Is it even legal?

[_Ryan_]

stock turbo doesnt like 14psi. i wouldnt go past 10psi at the manifold.

Screamer isnt legal. Dumps to atmo, look for a split dump or bellmouth, but not a screamer for a street car

Edited December 6, 2007 by Ryan1600

[stasis]

stock turbo doesnt like 14psi. i wouldnt go past 10psi at the manifold.

Screamer isnt legal. Dumps to atmo, look for a split dump or bellmouth, but not a screamer for a street car

LOL!! i ws just getting to carried away Ryan. Since his new i thought that we will teach him the bsd stuff first!!

But yea im not sure for an Rb25 but mine is running at 1 bar at the moment with stock turbos.

[mitchy_]

i wouldnt buy a R32 GTR fuel pump.. buy a bosch 040, or 044... what point is there of replacing a 10yr old pump, with a 15yr old pump? they are about ready to die anyway

boost gauge - there is a nipple on the back of the plenum with a rubber plug on it, in the R33 it goes to the factory boost gauge in the dash, in the stagea its blocked off, just put your hose on there, done!

pod filter - apexi power intake is a great filter, i had one on my 33, and kylie has one on her stag.

BOV - get a turbosmart plumb-back bov, the stock one can leak over about 12ish psi

FMIC - the stagea specific kit is identical to the R33/34 kit.. which i installed in kylies car, definately worth it if you want to raise the boost (the stock side mounts are VERY restrictive, kylies stag spooled quicker with the FMIC)

Exhaust - 3" turbo back with a split dump (dont get a bellmouth dump, they are useless, and cost about the same) with a 3" highflow cat.

if you want a bit more top end power, but are willing to drop a bit of midrange, get a 3.5" system. (my R33 made 300rwhp on stock turbo with an exhaust that started at 3", and gradually expanded to 4" by the end)

Auto shift kit - MV automatics in SA, have never heard a bad word about them

Boost controller - $30 ebay special! i'm serious, i had one on my R33, boost never spiked over the 13psi i set it at.

if you have bigger plans, or want more control over wastegate opening, etc.. get a electronic boost controller, but for a mild upgrade, they arent worth it.

you will probably want to get some form of fuel management too, SAFC II is fantastic for mild power.

[_Ryan_]

if leaking, GTR BOV for stealth-ness!

Yudy, take me for a spin in your car:P convince me to sell the 1600 and upgrade

[rb26stagea]

I use 2xGTR BOVs ... minimal 'wank' noise....

[rubba]

I finally found a pic, just to confirm that is the nipple to attach the boost gauge line to? (the arrow not the circle )

Edited December 6, 2007 by rubba

[_Ryan_]

yes

[mitchy_]

thats the one

[pixel8r]

me too, me too!

So to start with, for now I do not plan on touching the turbo so it is completely stock as is the entire car. I'd like to push up the boost a bit so what is a decent safe level to aim for?

Firstly, welcome to the world of modified stageas.

Number one point to make is that the stock turbo will shatter at around 14psi and send pieces of ceramic etc. all over the place - basically you dont want that to happen.

Keep it at or below 10psi and you'll be fine. Aftermarket turbos with steel wheels wont have this limitation but they also wont be anywhere near as responsive as the stock turbo either.

If you just want to run 10psi, then all you need is exhaust, boost controller (another vote for the turbotech - get it off ebay - fantastic product for a fantastic price), apexi SAFC2 & tune.

Some optional extras are R34 SMIC (s2 stageas come with these standard), shift kit (i have one and love it, not as smooth as stock but still comfortable), apexi panel filter ($80 as mentioned in another post) - i have one of these also and they work great. Beware of K&N they are oiled and can mess up your AFM (which can be cleaned) and also they do give higher airflow but this is because K&N filters are actually a very poor filter. Your call in the end though I've had one before in a turbo silvia and had issues with the AFM from it.

Boost gauge I need to attach to a line somewhere, where would the most convenient line be to tap into?

Small nipple near the plenum, driver side. I think you found it already?

Also it obviously needs to be wired to illum so it lights up with lights on, where have you guys spliced it in?

most people tap into the wires running the light surrounding the cigarette lighter.

Pod filter seems simple enough in theory, remove airbox, the pod should come with an adapter plate to bolt onto the AFM yes? Is is as simple as that?

as others have said, waste of time unless you also make a cold air box/intake for it. These will actually perform worse than the standard panel filter if sucking in hot air.

BOV - dont need to replace the stock one. It'll be fine. If you want the whoosh sound, you'll probably want to avoid driving near cops anyway.

FMIC seems pretty straight forward - take off front bar, remove the side mount, attach the FMIC on the front and get all the piping in the right place and clamp it up to turbo and intake. Anything I am missing?

A couple of things here. Any FMIC setup will require cutting into the chassis (illegal & irrepairable - if u get defected, you'll need to get it engineer approved before its legal again), unless you get one that has a return feed for plugging into the stock piping. These are expensive, as are any replacement SMIC except for the stock ones.

My advice is to go for the larger R34 SMIC which will be fine up to about 160awkw (after that its still ok but wont keep temps near ambient) and if you need more than that, go for a water spray kit. These kits can make your SMIC more effective than any FMIC so well worth the money. (btw anyone who feels like installing a manual one for me that I can activate by pushing a button, including payment, please pm me!)

Exhaust - take it to shop and say gimmie new exhaust pls and hand over cash.

Exactly what I did. Make sure you get 2 mufflers. Most people that have gotten a resonator & 1 muffler have complained of drone (including myself before I got the resonator swapped for a mid-muffler). The mufflers should be straight-through so virtually no restrictions anyway. Stageas sound awesome with a good free-flowing exhaust!

Shift kit - shop job as above

Up to you. I've got one and think its great but can be fairly clunky when the car is under heavy load (ie. particularly when a/c is on and in 35+ degrees etc)...but under normal driving you likely wont notice it. I'd recommend going for a ride in a stagea that has one fitted first if possible.

Boost controller - electronic or manual? Obviously there is a rather large price difference here between the 2, should I be spending that extra money for an electronic controller if I am only pushing it up a small amount?

Turbotech!! on the other hand if you want two different boost settings selectable from in the cabin, then you'll need an electronic one. Be aware though that the 2 different boost settings will require 2 different Apexi SAFC settings and both need to be changed manually. The SAFC2 (blue screen with buttons) wont work for this - you will need the later model SAFC2 (blue screen with turny knob).

Either way you'll completely bypass the factory solenoid.

On a side note, if you want more boost for now, the factory solenoid normally switches boost from 5psi to 7psi at around 4500rpm. If you want it to run 7psi all the time just short the black wire that goes into the solenoid plug. ie. cut the wire before the plug (not the solenoid side, the ecu side!) and ground that wire (not the plug end) on a chassis bolt. There's one right near there behind the airbox that works well. This mod worked for me but if not sure, do it in such a way that you can reconnect it to the plug wire if it fails. It obviously wont give you more peak power since this is already at 7psi. It'll just give you a bit better low-mid range boost.

Good luck with it

Edited December 7, 2007 by pixel8r