Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so ive gotten a million and one quotes on how much replacing the clutch in my GTR is going to be labour wise, but my problem is noone i talk to seems to know much about the car itself. Does anyone know a good place to take my car around sydney area?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197026-clutch-replacement/
Share on other sites

ooer interesting did you find an aftermarket clutch for the z? first time I changed mine i had to go standard nissan.

And you must change the flywheel as well. it is dual mass and will blow up sooner or later which means box out again anyway.

For the GTR clutch....where are you? there are lots of sydney workshop threads. And I've got a clutch for sale that would suit

ooer interesting did you find an aftermarket clutch for the z? first time I changed mine i had to go standard nissan.

And you must change the flywheel as well. it is dual mass and will blow up sooner or later which means box out again anyway.

Hi Duncan,

I am gettin exedy organic clutch with lightweight flywheel combo. Yeah i was told to change the flywheel as well :-)

Edited by R34NOS
im in north sydney, and wouyld be interested in buying a clutch for sure, just need a standard one until i upgrade everything down the track heh.

Yep, go powerplay then.

82 - 88 Victoria Rd

Drummoyne NSW 2047

Phone: (02) 9819 7555

Fax: (02) 9819 7055

Email: [email protected]

yea going to powerplay. so much difference in quotes though, its amazing. the places that did not know gtr's were like need your car for like 2 days and 800 dollars for labour. powerplay said about 300 for labour and 2 and a half hours haha.

yea going to powerplay. so much difference in quotes though, its amazing. the places that did not know gtr's were like need your car for like 2 days and 800 dollars for labour. powerplay said about 300 for labour and 2 and a half hours haha.

Excellent work! My poor baby has to go back in there soon to get my box rebuilt.

yea going to powerplay. so much difference in quotes though, its amazing. the places that did not know gtr's were like need your car for like 2 days and 800 dollars for labour. powerplay said about 300 for labour and 2 and a half hours haha.

Yeah $300 is a good price and i got quoted from 2 places same price. Some places may need your car for 1 day simply because its xmas time and everyone wants their car back before xmas. Anyways good luck

getting a heavy duty clutch installed at northern beaches performance today in my 33 gtst, think they qouted about $300 for approx 2-3 hours work. would highly recommend them, and it would be alot closer than drummoyne.

why don't you just get a heavy duty clutch if you're planning on upgrading down the track? :rofl:

got my Exedy 5 puk button kit installed by trent last week, it's awesome, so light and easy to use. was expecting something very heavy and a bitch to use in traffic

if you're having trouble getting a hold of northern beaches performance on the landline, try trent's mobile (on website). quite often he's got an air compressor going or something and can't hear the phone.

and i think he mentioned sam isn't working there anymore

so they put the clutch in but cant get it to engage and they have no idea why.....had to happen to me lol, my car is cursed

dont worry dude had the same problem when i did mine i had to put the box in and out five times and then it worked :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...