Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here are some photos of my new wheels

Work VS-KF

18x10 +20 rear with 235/40 tyres

18x9 +26 front 225/40 tyres

I am still to add a 25mm bolt on spacer on the fronts. Also lowering the rear 1 circlip (8mm) and front 2 circlips (1.6cm). In these photos I have my old wheels in the boot, thats why it sits at that height (which is the one I want)

Guards are completely stock, still have the lip. I am going to lip the rears as it rubs slightly over bumps. With a lip, it wont rub at all.

Will post up photos after lowering/spacing.

copyof10122007040ex2.jpg

copyof10122007041de5.jpg

copyof10122007042bg3.jpg

copyof10122007043jf9.jpg

Edited by AlexCim
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197030-got-some-new-wheels/
Share on other sites

I am not normally a fan of chromies either, but I think they suit.

I lowered the front 2 circlips but it didn't go that much. I left the rears, I am going to both of them as is. A little lip and it will be sweet on the rear

I probably wont lower the car beyond now as I still give it a thrash through mountains and I want to avoid bump steer/wheel smashing on front gaurd. The 25mm spacer at the front did wonders!

Going to look for a series 2 Dayz kit if anything, will probably wait to get off my P's for that (April)

copyof11122007048vq2.jpg

copyof11122007049yx3.jpg

copyof11122007047pa1.jpg

Edited by AlexCim

Those wheels are mad Alex!

The fitment is not to my taste but I am an old man and scared from too many Kingswood rims being fitted to early model Commodores and sticking out past the guards...

I do see the point though, that is some great dish.

haha, if anything I would put 215/45's on the front. The fronts now would hit the gaurd thats why I cant lower it too much beyond where it is.

The rears wont fit anything below 235/40 as I am only lipping the gaurd, I am not flaring/rolling it at all. 235's fit perfect under the rear gaurd.

You running yours RWD now Alex?

No, I am not. But I don't give a shit about my gearbox anymore. Its dieing anyway and I want a manual box (I am of the theory, don't fix/replace until its TOTALLY rooted)

what happens when you go over bumps? dont you get mad rubbing?

Slight rubbing on the rear at the moment, I am lipping my guard tonight (just bending the inside lip up, not flaring or rolling). Once that lip is bent up, HEAPS of clearance (What I deem as heaps :devil:)

The front wheels fit just outside the guard and my front shocks are pretty stiff (SK GB), as of yet to bottom them out. Either way, both wheels camber in to clear. The tyres on the front now are pretty square, even with a stretch (tread design). The next tyres should be more rounded.

My theory about fitting wheels is get the wheels first, then adjust the car around to suit. If thats with tyre stretch, negative/positive camber, lipping, rolling, flaring etc. All I checked on these was inner clearance to the shock, of which there was plenty both front and rear.

The fronts don't scrub inner or outer guards either.

Edited by AlexCim

it won't hurt your auto box, it would hurt the transfer case if anything and the operation of the AWD system. But 225/40 to 235/40 is bugger all difference in height, about 4mm. Even less with the stretch on the rear sidewalls. I doubt it will be a problem at all.

mr plod will like them too I reckon, as will an insurance company if you have an accident with tyres fitted to rims outside the maximum recomended width. hopefully it never comes to that.

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...