Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not sure which way to go. I'm interested in both of these

R34GT + Late model car etc (rare version available)

R34GT - non I can think or am aware of.

R33GTR V-Spec + well it's a GTR & V-Spec! already modified

R33GTR V-Spec - modified, possible issues later on & insurance. Older car

Both similar price, both similar K's

Without being to specific or negative in respect to relevant members, I would appreciate any sugestions or opinions.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19778-r34-gt-or-r33-gtr-v-spec/
Share on other sites

I chose the 34 GTT myself, wanted something 'newer' in all respects of the word. I am paying 1,200 full comp with shannons. 33 GTR was a bit more expensive when I bought mine

newer engine, looks, styling, etc.

As Straight6 said "drive them both" :D and also look at them both inside and out!

Have fun.

if you're looking for a Skyline for the sake of it being new, get the R34 GTt, if you're more inclined to performance, go the R33 GT-R cos at the end of the day you still got the RB26 under the hood.

.......or better yet the R34 GT-R:burnout:

i would go the R33 GT-R VSPEC.:D i might be the only one saying this...but i prefer the R33 shape to the R34 shape(considering both are GT-Rs). Especially a S2 R33 GT-R VSPEC in midnight purple with white RAYS TE37s:p

I did the same - R34 GTT vs R33 GTR. At the end of the day - I chose the GTR. Why? A GTT, although newer and very nice - will never be a GTR. I didn't want to spend lots of money on a car that I wish was something better.

Just my 2c :D

Either way - you can't loose.

Oh - Aerograce: Like this?

gtr88-garage.jpg

:)

I've seen 33 GTST's in Midnight Purple but not sure if they are authentic factory coloured or R customs. There is like a 40th Anniversary Edition (might B Tommy Kaira) of the R33 that i've only seen in White and the purple so maybe it isnt a GTR exclusive........Oh and just to reinterate - GTR all the way baby!!!!!!!

Originally posted by Jamezilla

gtr88-garage.jpg

:)

:drooling: :) Beautiful, beautiful car...

hey james, were u driving down St. Kilda rd towards flinders st and like 4pm Fri arvo, heard a nice exhaust walking down Dorcas, turn around and see an awesome midnight purple R33 with what looked like bronze rims cruising along. Def GTR too, i assum that was urself??

so is ur pride and joy (no, not the Lada :D) all back in working order?? been quite a while hasn't it?

anyways, i'm sure a R34 GT-T would be cheaper too, whilst i'd prob go with the R33 GTR V-Spec if the price wasn't a problem, but if it was i'd prob go with the GT-T

cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...