Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After installing a hks GTRS turbo it now Feels like i am driving with handbrake on, and its low on power, it is slow through the revs no coughing or missfiring though, is the GTRS a laggy turbo the main reason i purchased it was because it has good hype for responsiveness. with standard turbo would have no dramas spinning wheels in take off and even into second now i cant even get them to chirp

I have an SAFC so shouldnt that rule out R&R??

When you upgrade to the GTRS was i meant to change injectors or Fuel reg??

Could it be fuel pump is not getting max volts??

supporting mods are

Bosch 040 fuel pump

FMIC

Blitz BOV

K&N pod filter

Splitfire ign coils

SAFC

3" turbo back exhaust with hi-flo cat

gizmo boost controller

Excedy HD clutch

Please any help would be great, after spending so much on turbo kit it is really ticking me off

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198243-problems-after-gtrs-turbo-install/
Share on other sites

it will need a tune and injectors and afm for you to see any kind of bennifit, remove the safc and get a tunable computer you have stepped up a knotch now and safc just wont do the job properly.

Check then double check all connections and gaskets you replaced.

Make sure you have done up all hoses/clamps and make sure all vaccum lines are on. Is the AFM plugged in?

I'm sure it will be something small and simple.

Good luck.

Check then double check all connections and gaskets you replaced.

Make sure you have done up all hoses/clamps and make sure all vaccum lines are on. Is the AFM plugged in?

I'm sure it will be something small and simple.

Good luck.

had loud whistle with new turbo so i have double checked and triple checked all gaskets and lines def no leaks, AFM is plugged in but i guess giving it a clean wouldnt hurt. didnt unplug any electrical connectors but will check nothing has come loose.

thanks

it will need a tune and injectors and afm for you to see any kind of bennifit, remove the safc and get a tunable computer you have stepped up a knotch now and safc just wont do the job properly.

They are selling these turbo's as direct replacements to standard unit, would have been good for a bit of fore warning to know i was goig to need management, larger afm and injectors.

my big problem is i would be happy if it was going as hard as before new turbo, but it is just so sluggish now

mate its normal. the car needs to be tuned.

when my hiflow first went in the car would take ages to boost and just felt crap.

another thing...... have you set up your ACTUATOR properly?????

bend it a little :)

(if you got the stock actuator ofcourse)

Edited by R33GOD

All those mods, and no fully programmable ECU - There is the problem.

Get a Power FC, and tune it

The GT-RS is an awesome upgrade for an RB25, and yes it technically is a direct replacement for the stock turbo, but common sense should tell you that when you replace a stock turbo with one thats rated at 420PS, you are going to need a suitable ECU to run the show, and the required supporting mods.

mate its normal. the car needs to be tuned.

when my hiflow first went in the car would take ages to boost and just felt crap.

another thing...... have you set up your ACTUATOR properly?????

bend it a little :)

(if you got the stock actuator ofcourse)

Bought Full HKS Kit came with actuator the lot,

just tighten it so it builds boost quicker.

i got one on my car. been ages since i stuffed around with it

It actually builds boost quickly but just runs like crap, i had a fuel pump fail on me and it felt like that, like there is just not enough fuel there, and when adjusting SAFC it is not making any difference

The std RB25 turbo is a bit restrictive on the exhaust side so going to a GT28 BB based turbo will open it up some .

I'd imagine the std computer is not giving it enough innitial light load ignition advance and thats making it feel a bit flat .

To have full control of fueling and ignition timimg you really need a programmable computer eg a PFC to take advantage of that turbos capabilities . I think exhaust/computer first is the best upgrade path because you can make the most of your engines spec at each stage .

Cheers A .

  • 1 month later...

Thought i had better update how i went with this problem incase anyone else runs into this drama,

Fitted a malpassi reg and seemed to fix the problem, but then it would intermittantly run like crap, so i put a fuel pressure gauge on and found it would vary pressure from drive to drive, I had mounted the malpassi on the side of the intake manifold and it was getting too hot, and when it would get hot the fuel pressure would fluctuate +/- 15%,

So i replaced it with a sard unit mounted it near the fuse box, new tune on the safc and hey presto car runs like a dream.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...