Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey forum have a little problem with my car that i hope you can help me with. The problem came about after i pushed my car on a track run. somehow the oil dipstick came loose and i lost bout a quart of oil under the hood and during ths time i had my car all out boosting, gearing up and down, you know the regular track type running. Well after all of this i noticed my car was harder to start it would take a long crank to start it and it would sound as if your trying to start the car with the car already on, also at idle my air fuel ratio is at 15 to 16 with no correction on the afc neo and it takes me putting in 20% more fuel to get it to 14. Well after these problems I checked under the hood and noticed the oil everywhere I changed it and still the same problems occur. It is lalso harder to get it rolling with just using the clutch, as i could have now Its a must i give it gas or it would stall. Please help me out with any ideas as to wht my problem or problems could be, do you all feel I have caused any permanent damage? The idle is also a bit rougher and at take off sounds like there is a hole in my exhaust.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198278-problem-with-gts-t/
Share on other sites

Ummm suggestion would be degrease all connections that may be covered in oil ie starter, alternator, injector looms, well everything that is some what related to electrical and try it after that, as the oil may be influencing on conductivity on components, Just a suggestion?

Ummm suggestion would be degrease all connections that may be covered in oil ie starter, alternator, injector looms, well everything that is some what related to electrical and try it after that, as the oil may be influencing on conductivity on components, Just a suggestion?

Hey thanks man I will try that. I mean I did use warm water and soap and some bathroom degreaser then used wd 40 after that but I will buy some engine degreaser tomorrow and try that. Do you suppose anything else besides that could be wrong considering the rougher idle, how I have to give it gas in order to take off instead of just using the clutch and the choppy sounding exhaust at take off? Also the leaner idle 15-16 instead of 14 -15.

have you done a compression test? check cylinder 6 I think you have busted your ring lands.

Ok will look into getting a compression test done. Couple of questions for ya what are the effects of a busted ring land, is there a quick way I can check to see if that a problem without doing a compression test: For instance like taking out my plugs and looking for oil, does it include taking the head off to fix and will it be expensive?

sponds like ring land or rings.

the dipstick came out due to pressure passing the rings and then forced oil up hte spout. this happent to worn engines whan they are thrashed. it sounds like you now have very little compression, ossibly made worse by driving it with less oil.

you need to do a compression test

Cheers

sponds like ring land or rings.

the dipstick came out due to pressure passing the rings and then forced oil up hte spout. this happent to worn engines whan they are thrashed. it sounds like you now have very little compression, ossibly made worse by driving it with less oil.

you need to do a compression test

Cheers

WOW!! Man this sucks and here I thought I was taking good care of her oil and spark plug changes regularly. Thought i would be able to give it a thrash here and there. I took the spark plugs out today and found oil on the sixth one and only on the sixth one. Does this mean definitely that the sixth cylinder ring is gone and not the head gasket, I know I am going to have to change it neway to get the cylinder fixed just want to make sure that its only that. I also took some pics of my timing belt by lookin at these can you guys tell if its off and should I be able to press on it like that see pics attached.

post-31292-1198116617_thumb.jpg

post-31292-1198116647_thumb.jpg

post-31292-1198116689_thumb.jpg

Does anybody have and answer or opinion for me. As I have took the spark plugs out and got what looks like oil build up on the sixth one and all the rest were clean. White smoke on hard acceleration and what seems like the car is missing on acceleration can really only be felt low in the rpms also inside the radiator has some sludge buildup and the overflow bottle's coolant looks a bit murky. What are these signs of a blown head gasket or blown ring lands on number six cylinder? Do you suggest I rebuild the entire engine or just replace the head gasket and worn ring lands, which ever the problem turns out to be? I was thinking thicker head gasket and forgies one time but, won't be able to do it all until February when I get all the parts and money together now if i go thicker gasket and can find the ring lands separately i'll be able to do it much sooner. Is it ok to drive around like that? Of course I won't be boosting it but its my only car so I really need it to get to work and run errands and as stated white smoke is only seen on hard acceleration.

Edited by Daboss

If your dipstick has blown out you have compression in your sump.......meaning your piston rings are not doing what they should.

Start the car have someone rev it for you, put a finger over the dipstick tube if you feel pressure it's as sure as your ass points to the ground it's rebuild time.

seriously....before you worry too much do a compression test, it will tell you if the rings are farked. Even at a workshop it should cost bugger all.

If you think its headgasket, start it up (cold) with the radiator cap off. When the thermostat opens you will see coolant flowing past the radiator cap. If there are bubbles your headgasket is gooone (exhaust gas in the coolant). Otherwise sludge could just be 15 year old dirty radiator

If your dipstick has blown out you have compression in your sump.......meaning your piston rings are not doing what they should.

Start the car have someone rev it for you, put a finger over the dipstick tube if you feel pressure it's as sure as your ass points to the ground it's rebuild time.

Well I did this and felt no pressure but when I reved it with my finger off the dipstick I saw white smoke. Is that Normal?

Did the coolant test as well and saw little bubbles nothing extreme but some bubbles were noticable. They were very tiny.

Also I noticed my timing seems off I have to advance the cas fully in order to get 10 degrees btdc could that be causing my car to idle so roughly and miss do you guys feel its time for a belt change has 57000km on the clock.

Stop playing with your tune, cas, etc. You are trying to retune your car to run on 5.5 cylinders, it's not going to happen.

Sounds like you have done a double wammie. Hard to start, rough idle, timing out, missing, harder to take off, etc all signs of a busted piston. Also your head gasket is stuffed, but this needs to be replaced when you rebuild the engine.

I know how you feel and recognize the symptoms, as i did the same thing on a race track, but mine didn't even blow any smoke. The only symptom i had, that made me realize something was wrong, was it was very hard to start on cold start. As soon as my mechanic heard the idle, when i pulled up to his w/shop, he knew straight away; "lost compression on one cylinder". My compression test, which i did myself, showed something like: 150, 149, 83, 151, 150, 152.

Here is a pic of my damage, that lead me to rebuild the engine; doesn't look like much, but halved the compression in that cylinder.

post-1811-1198855352_thumb.jpg post-1811-1198855364_thumb.jpg

If you can't afford a proper rebuild, then just pull out your engine and buy another 2nd hand one. Problem is; you do not know what you're getting :banana:

Stop playing with your tune, cas, etc. You are trying to retune your car to run on 5.5 cylinders, it's not going to happen.

Sounds like you have done a double wammie. Hard to start, rough idle, timing out, missing, harder to take off, etc all signs of a busted piston. Also your head gasket is stuffed, but this needs to be replaced when you rebuild the engine.

I know how you feel and recognize the symptoms, as i did the same thing on a race track, but mine didn't even blow any smoke. The only symptom i had, that made me realize something was wrong, was it was very hard to start on cold start. As soon as my mechanic heard the idle, when i pulled up to his w/shop, he knew straight away; "lost compression on one cylinder". My compression test, which i did myself, showed something like: 150, 149, 83, 151, 150, 152.

Here is a pic of my damage, that lead me to rebuild the engine; doesn't look like much, but halved the compression in that cylinder.

post-1811-1198855352_thumb.jpg post-1811-1198855364_thumb.jpg

If you can't afford a proper rebuild, then just pull out your engine and buy another 2nd hand one. Problem is; you do not know what you're getting :banana:

You must have misunderstood me I have not touched the car since the problem. The cas adjustment was long before this happened and I only took it off recently to check the timing belt thats when I noticed that the timing looked off but could not really tell.

Edited by Daboss

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes I can see how that would put you off HFM, especially with the price of good quality brake fluid. From what I understand it as you say the BM50 is the standard BMC for a R32 GTR, I must admit I would like to go far a Genuine Nissan BM57, but lack of cash prevents that at present. With the price being so close between the genuine BM50 and BM57 a BM57 New it seems a better choice as you gain that 1/16 bore size with the BM57, I would be interested in how much difference you feel with the BM57 fitted. I am going to take SteveL's advice in the short term and see how much actually comes out of that proportioning valve vent and save up for the Genuine Nissan part. Thanks for clarifying the HFM failure
    • Thanks mate. I just got the post inspection 1/2 done from state roads when the starter motor packed up, either that or the car alarm system is having trouble.  OEM part number 23300-AA112.
    • Hi, I though I was coming to an end in finding a replacement starter motor for a rb25de neo. I came across a starter motor from Taarks and a message below stating: Direct fit. 11 Tooth count. All below part numbers have been superseded to 11 teeth. Can some body shed some light on going from 8 teeth to 11 teeth apart from 36-month / 25,000 km warranty for passenger vehicles to 12 Month Warranty. Compatible with the following Nissan part numbers: 23300-20P00 23300-20P01 23300-20P05 23300-20P10 23300-20P11 23300-AA111 23300-AA112 23300-AA300 23300-08U10 23300-08U11 23300-08U15  
    • Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.
    • 8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.
×
×
  • Create New...