Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

gts2.jpg

What do you guys think? I've seen this conversion at some shows here, and I think just from weight distribution alone it would be a good idea.

Right now I've just just got a stock shitter R32 4-door Type M... 100,000k's, couple of dings here and there, but this ones gonna be my long-term ride... hello engine swap.

Would anybody contemplate removing an RB from a Skyline?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19830-rb20det-sr20det-in-r32/
Share on other sites

Why would people say it's going backwards? The capacity is the same, the SR (chosen carefully) would be a newer engine, the power is virtually the same...

Alot of guys here in Japan either bomb the crap out of the RB20, or get rid of it.

the torque thing is a bit misguided.

YES the SR20DET makes more torque than the RB20DET.

SR = 155kw@6000rpm and 275NM@4000rpm at 8psi boost (ROUGH numbers)

RB = 158kw@6200rpm and 263NM@3200rpm at 8-9psi boost (rough numbers again)

the RB makes like 10NM less but at 800rpm earlier.

so whish engine is actually the more TORQUEY engine?

the one that has a little more torque or the one that pulls from lower revs?

hope this adds to the discussion.

I saw this conversion done in Japan while I was over there ( Osaka ) and it seems the main reason for doing this RB to SR swap is for race or drift purposes. The main thing is that when an SR is fitted, there's so much room between the radiator and the engine that you can bring the radiator and intercooler back into the engine bay for protection against front end damage.

Most of the ones I saw then ducted the air path up through the bonnet which keeps the air heated air flow away from the engine itself but about 1/3 of the air hitting the front of the car actually goes into the engine bay.

One of the guys I spoke to over there also swears by the reduction in front end weight and the great change in weight distribution. So if your RB is dead, go an SR instead !

Yeah, that flat-mounted-in-the-engine bay intercooler setup is a definate goer... theres actually a flat-mount intercooler for 180SX's with extemely short pipes to and from the turbo/intake manifold which I'm looking to export to Oz.

FAT32> I'm in Osaka/Kobe. Who did you speak to?

Rezz, I was talking to one guy at the Osaka Auto Messe who spoke english rather well and that's where I got most of my info from. Didn't really talk to any workshops etc. about this subject. ( Don't speak enough Japanese to hold a conversation ).

I love the conversion from RB to SR it just makes so much sense and it looked awesome in his red drift R32 !!

Originally posted by FAT32

Rezz, I was talking to one guy at the Osaka Auto Messe who spoke english rather well and that's where I got most of my info from. Didn't really talk to any workshops etc. about this subject. ( Don't speak enough Japanese to hold a conversation ).

I love the conversion from RB to SR it just makes so much sense and it looked awesome in his red drift R32 !!

Was that this years Messe, or last (or one before that)? Mate, I saw a couple of Aussies (I can tell a countryman in a crowd of Japs no problem!:) ) there, I wonder if it was you?

Anyways, I love the conversion too, ESPECIALLY after Nismo retired the RB26 in the '02 JGTC in favour of the VG30DETT, for better weight distribution amongst other things...

I went this year ( Feb 03 ) and I should be going again next Feb if all goes well. The year before I went to the Auto Salon in Tokyo but that's just too packed for me. You know, you probably did see me there. I think I was causing a bit of a disturbance by drawing the promo girls away from the hungry flocks of Japanese camera jockey's. He, he. :D Got some great pictures from that trip.

I've got a mate who lives over there called Alan then another mate called Gary who also joined us. 2 Aussies and a Greek in Japan, way too funny !

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
    • Yes. Autos typically work from the speed sensor on the pinion shaft of the diff. I also think that even if you have a proper speed sensor for the bog manual in the manual box, that the signal it outputs is not compatible with the auto dash anyway. You should consult that manual (the book, not the gearbox).
    • And I just realised that that advice is slightly nonsensical for a GTR, because you need 2 of them. But it is otherwise true.
    • Having had a reasonable look at the car, I'll be able to remove the (one time) rams and retract the hinge (they are held in the down location by a tiny (m3?) sacrificial screw) which will get it physically back in shape. From there if you remove the rams you need a resistor to turn off the airbag light (as Mark said, there are plug in kits and I might go that way because its reversible). And...per all the threads on here, even if you have the resistors to turn off the airbag light, the bonnet light will stay on as it writes to the airbag computer history - that is either replace the airbag controller, reprogam the EPROM (if I can work out how), or remove the globe from the dash. Having seen how sensitive this system is, if I had my time over I'd pre-emptively remove the rams, even on a road car, because this is all a very unnecessary pain in the arse. Reminds me, time to go and have a look at the Fuga too....
×
×
  • Create New...