Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm currently in the market to buy my life long dream, a GTR. As I have had a battle with cancer since earlier on in the year and have just been given the all clear. So I've now sold my Suzuki Sierra monster truck to help fund the new toy. I've always had in mind a V-SPEC but have had a few very nice NON V-SPEC come up aswell. So which is best and are the differances worth the worth the extra coin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198617-v-spec-or-non-v-spec/
Share on other sites

Brembo brakes, Slightly different ATTESSA settings....firmer suspension...etcdepends on what you want to do with the car.If circuit racing is your thing then I would go the V-spec...but if its just a streeter...Not worth the extra coin

It all really comes down to condition of the car. A very straight GTR is just as good as a GTR V-Spec in most situations.

The V-Spec has a number of minor improvements like firmer ride, 1 cm lower ride height, active rear diff etc - that is if the car is stock. If the car has aftermarket suspension then all of this means nothing.

From a personal perspective I have a pristine V-Spec and I love the active rear diff and the Super Hi Cass. The car has unbelievable levels of grip and the rear wheel steering really freaks out passengers the first time that they come for a ride in the car.

It all really comes down to condition of the car. A very straight GTR is just as good as a GTR V-Spec in most situations.

The V-Spec has a number of minor improvements like firmer ride, 1 cm lower ride height, active rear diff etc - that is if the car is stock. If the car has aftermarket suspension then all of this means nothing.

From a personal perspective I have a pristine V-Spec and I love the active rear diff and the Super Hi Cass. The car has unbelievable levels of grip and the rear wheel steering really freaks out passengers the first time that they come for a ride in the car.

Does only the V-spec have rear steer???

I haven't heard that before, I'd be very surprised as there should be no differences in the transfer case. I have been told the A-LSD can often become a hinderance when there's a problem with it, but I don't know much about that.

I'm happy with my non V-SPEC, as it was in much nicer condition than the V-SPECs I was looking at :happy: I drove a few V-SPEC and non V-SPEC R33 GTR's and didn't feel f**k all difference.

Complete list of differences:

Vspec has active LSD (a yellow light in the dash)

Vpsec has the faster attesa computer 1/1000th of a second rather than 1/100th (not visually noticable)

Vspec has stiffer suspension stock 10mm lower (not visably noticable)

10kg more weight (not visably noticable)

A Vspec sticker

Air difusers for the front brakes

Slightly better ABS (not visually noticable)

Finned rear diff

Seriously, I can't push enough to buy off condition.... they can become expensive if you get a crap one.

Edited by TommO

And in regards to A-LSD, here's other RACERS agreeing with the thoughts about A-LSD and ATTESA improvements.... no one can feel the driving difference haha..

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/33...driving+GTR+LSD

Do both V-spec and non V-spec 33s have an aluminum front end / boot lid?

Not 100% on whether they are aluminum but there are no body panel changes between V-spec and Non V-Spec GTR's, apart from a V-Spec sticker on the rear ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'll just leave this with, holy shit, those cars at work are awesome, and this will look wicked!
    • Could you modify this duct so instead it pushes the extra air through the radiator too and not down and out? For temps, I know it's not the greatest idea, but as a bit of a last resort, you could use a very intermittent misting spray onto the front of the coolers/rad. You don't want to be soaking them such that water is dripping off, but a small most on/off so that the water evaporates. That point of it constantly evaporating, rather than being soaked in water, will pull a LOT of heat out of the cooler. I'm literally thinking just the little mist sprayers for a garden from Bunnings. Being in a low humidity climate it will help even more! The other trick if you want to be ghetto is some shade cloth hung in the opening, and keep it wet. Pretty much now it's acting like an evap cooler on a house, but cooling the air you need to use to cool the radiator...   On a topic to think about too though, when air enters through the bumper, is it all nicely ducted from the edges of that opening back at a nice angle, or is it like most cars, and the edge of the opening just stops, and suddenly it's wayyy wider behind that? If it does the later, get it shrouded out at nice angles. When that opening changes too rapidly, it can actually cause a high pressure zone between the front bar and radiator, and limit air flow into that area, which means less air for cooling, as it effectively stalls the air, AND adds to drag...
    • Do you have any before and after photos? That's $200 just for the hydro blasting?
    • Yea pedal box and no abs
    • It doesn't look like there's a lot of options out there these days, and what's out there is performance oriented aftermarket stuff (with the GTR markup) I wonder if there are other cars with similar springs, after all its just a matter of length, diameter and stiffness. Alternatively, I did see coil spacers. Probably not the best option, but could be serviceable too.  
×
×
  • Create New...