Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm thinking of getting a custom box made with the cone filters inside (this makes it legal apparently and stealthier) with a pipe running from the guard up feeding the cold air in.

I would like to know what experience people have with a cold air induction system and if it makes a lot of difference in terms of responsiveness, actual power increase and anything else.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1987-cold-air-induction/
Share on other sites

Guest Crazyfcuk

i thought id play with the idea one night, so i cruized the strip, with ice packs in/around my cone filter, and after stop-start traffic for about 1 hr down queen st, i got to the bottom lights turning right, anyway i was in the left lane and he was in the right lane (in a worked gsr), and when the lights went green we both gave it death, any way to cut a long story short i kicked his ass, and he couldnt keep up. And i had 4 people in my car, as did he.

And my cars got about an extra 200kgs anyway from all the stereo.

Weather or not it was from the ice i dont know, but later on that night he kicked my ass in a race. So i dont know.

Im in the process of making a cold box at the moment so ill keep u informed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1987-cold-air-induction/#findComment-37105
Share on other sites

If its intercooled, why the need for cold air intake? Doesnt the coola bring the temp back to around 20deg anyway??? :confused:

It couldn't possibly make all that much difference unless its boosted beyond what the coola can handle. Could it??:confused:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1987-cold-air-induction/#findComment-37999
Share on other sites

Originally posted by riggaP

If its intercooled, why the need for cold air intake? Doesnt the coola bring the temp back to around 20deg anyway??? :confused:

It couldn't possibly make all that much difference unless its boosted beyond what the coola can handle. Could it??:confused:

Yeah but why suck in hot air to begin with? Might as well only take cold air in to reduce temps all the way through. And I put a cold air partition in to get the most out of my crappy little factory cooler.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1987-cold-air-induction/#findComment-39026
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Hi guys, 8 degrees celsius increase in inlet air temperature = 5% less horsepower. So feeding your engine 25 degree (ambient air temp) is worht 15% more power than feeding it with 50 degree air (as in what comes out of the radiator). Simply the cheapest and most effective mod you can make to your car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1987-cold-air-induction/#findComment-584669
Share on other sites

I tried all combos...

in the end (which is now) I have my standard R32 gsts air box with a TRUST panel filter in it.

I have noticed no drop in top end (which is what people reckon the problem with the standard air box and standard filter is) and the car is a lot more responsive due to the fact that the air it gets is cool air rather than engine air.

If my intercooler wasn't in the standard location, I would have mounted the air box down there.

that way, you get cold air coming in always and there is no engine bay heat to heat up the box.. and believe me, it heats it up.

I've done a few tests with temp probe and digital display that I have...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1987-cold-air-induction/#findComment-585199
Share on other sites

yeah you may as well just start with cold air to begin with i think...

i ran a pipe, albeit smallish, up to the stock box with high-flow panel filter in my car. worked a charm although i have to clean the filter and box more often now than before...

plus its relitavely free so worth it if you're bored!

PS if you are looking to find some pipe, the BEST place is clark rubber - i looked everywhere and this was the cheapest way to get pipe that was free-flowing inside...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1987-cold-air-induction/#findComment-585358
Share on other sites

PVC pipes from any plumber store is also cheap.

AND they also have pre fabricated bends like 45 and 90 degree bends.

All you need to do is slot them together like lego.

if you're really fussy, you can also get that BLUE glue they use for those pipes.

paint the thing black and you're done.

Once all slotted together, the inside is compeltely smooth.

I've got a short length of pipe and a few bends if anyone is interested and is in Sydney..

Yang.. you want them?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1987-cold-air-induction/#findComment-585428
Share on other sites

hey guy, over here in W.A you can get a permit for pod filters.

once you got that and you have a FMIC you can run a 3" mandral bent pipe through your old intercooler pipe hole ( you need to make it a little bigger ) and put your pod filter behind your bumper.. perfect ambiant temp there... and legal cos you have a permit for a pod filter.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/1987-cold-air-induction/#findComment-586071
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...