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Wiring an Amp in a R33


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Guest thfc1afc0

To anyone who has an amp wired up in their 33, is it earthed to the battery earth or has it got it's own earthing point ? If so where is it ?

I wouldn't have thought it would make that much difference, but really don't wanna fry my amp after spending the best part of a day creating a custom unit to fit next to the battery containing my amp and multichanger.

Cheers

G

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yeah i did all that myself, the battery is still in its original position, the hicas computer was moved to the middle of the parcel shelf to fit the speakers in. They are alpine type r 6 by 9's in for rear fill, Type r 6 1/2 splits up front Type S 12 subs with and Alpine MRV-F540 and an alpine MRV-T420 powering it all. The amps are located behind the subs on a piece of mdf mounted on the fake partition in the 33 boot. The grey u see is just a vinal trim piece and the box isnt much bigger then the whole cut out for it. and the base of the box is just 19mm mdf the is much longer then both sides of the box so i had somewhere to screw the bow into the floor. It takes all of 5 mins to remove so i can still get to the spare tyre.

  • 1 month later...

NA_R33 i like the sounds of your system, at the moment I have a M500 mono block running a 12" JBL Powerseries, i have type r 6 1/2's in the back, F#1 Status splits in the front, 307 running all the speakers, alpine tv and vcd changer, and sony PS2, and a stinger capacitor. i am looking at going to 2 jbl's and a m1000 (around 1200 watts rms) and a new alpine 4 channel. I had type r splits and loved them, but after going to the F#1 Alpines i would never go back.

the dual voice coil type s is a very good sub for its price, If you are willing to spent a little extra the type r is a very good choice. I had a type r and it really went off, but the JBL is just that little better. I put a type s in a mates corolla with around 200 watts rms behind it and it goes of its head, he got the sub and the m200 amp brand new for about $450, and it really does sound good.

dude your whole chassis is negative, so you can ground your amplifier to any conductive material that is attached to your chassis, it will carry negative energy, when 'blowing' things up it has to have a power current running through it thus the need of positive but you counteract such things buy having inline fuses.....

-bryan

  • 1 month later...

BryanB,when grounding an amp which is close to the battery, it is best to connect the amp to the -ve terminal, or the same ground point. The reason for this is that by grounding at another point nearby can 'induce a ground looping inductance', which can leak signals back into the amp and cause interference. If the battery is a long way away, then there is little chance of this and a different grounding point is unlikely to cause a problem. I got this info first from my old man, and backed up by ppl at DLS.

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