Jump to content
SAU Community

Wiring an Amp in a R33


Guest thfc1afc0
 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest thfc1afc0

To anyone who has an amp wired up in their 33, is it earthed to the battery earth or has it got it's own earthing point ? If so where is it ?

I wouldn't have thought it would make that much difference, but really don't wanna fry my amp after spending the best part of a day creating a custom unit to fit next to the battery containing my amp and multichanger.

Cheers

G

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i here ya dude, its addictive, i cant even drive my parents cars for extended periods of time ne more, i just need bass.... i think i have a problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest thfc1afc0

Is that a picture of your own handy work ? Looks pretty impressive have you relocated the battery and used the space under the rear parcel shelf. What amps, subs, speakers are you running ?

G

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah i did all that myself, the battery is still in its original position, the hicas computer was moved to the middle of the parcel shelf to fit the speakers in. They are alpine type r 6 by 9's in for rear fill, Type r 6 1/2 splits up front Type S 12 subs with and Alpine MRV-F540 and an alpine MRV-T420 powering it all. The amps are located behind the subs on a piece of mdf mounted on the fake partition in the 33 boot. The grey u see is just a vinal trim piece and the box isnt much bigger then the whole cut out for it. and the base of the box is just 19mm mdf the is much longer then both sides of the box so i had somewhere to screw the bow into the floor. It takes all of 5 mins to remove so i can still get to the spare tyre.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I earthed mine where the earth lead from the battery bolts onto the car itself. When you remove the cover hiding the battery, you will see it below the battery. My amp sits next to the battery.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

NA_R33 i like the sounds of your system, at the moment I have a M500 mono block running a 12" JBL Powerseries, i have type r 6 1/2's in the back, F#1 Status splits in the front, 307 running all the speakers, alpine tv and vcd changer, and sony PS2, and a stinger capacitor. i am looking at going to 2 jbl's and a m1000 (around 1200 watts rms) and a new alpine 4 channel. I had type r splits and loved them, but after going to the F#1 Alpines i would never go back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the dual voice coil type s is a very good sub for its price, If you are willing to spent a little extra the type r is a very good choice. I had a type r and it really went off, but the JBL is just that little better. I put a type s in a mates corolla with around 200 watts rms behind it and it goes of its head, he got the sub and the m200 amp brand new for about $450, and it really does sound good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dude your whole chassis is negative, so you can ground your amplifier to any conductive material that is attached to your chassis, it will carry negative energy, when 'blowing' things up it has to have a power current running through it thus the need of positive but you counteract such things buy having inline fuses.....

-bryan

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just remember anytime you're wiring amps and other audio related items to upgrade the negative battery lead.

Electricity travels in a circuit. If you don't upgrade the earth cable then most of your current will not be able to return, thus rendering it useless. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

BryanB,when grounding an amp which is close to the battery, it is best to connect the amp to the -ve terminal, or the same ground point. The reason for this is that by grounding at another point nearby can 'induce a ground looping inductance', which can leak signals back into the amp and cause interference. If the battery is a long way away, then there is little chance of this and a different grounding point is unlikely to cause a problem. I got this info first from my old man, and backed up by ppl at DLS.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Vanos solenoid problems and basically all sensors die an early death 
    • Yep, back in the day when you could pick up a Stagea RB25 NEO for $1,500 it was worth it. These days... just chuck your V8 or B58 in.
    • from my limited BMW experience: - they burn oil WTF (B48 FTW 170kW engine) - dump oil every 5,000km and you'll be ok.. until it drops a bearing and rebuild time. replace engine with B58
    • I would avoid the AWD motor in a RWD using a modified RWD sump and pickup. The way the pick up is positioned, you'll have oil pick up issues on hard acceleration on a track around bends. Even with a baffled, gated sump. I suppose if you don't race on a track and it's used for straight line activities or street use you might be ok.
    • They absolutely are, but the thing is, if you're only exposed to these circuits for a while, what I normally think is good driving suddenly isn't so much. I was a pussy at the Nurburgring (GP) entering corners at 180kph - the difference in the balance of the car suddenly becomes so much more pronounced and I'm still a bit regarded at left-foot braking - something I now practice on my commute. So the (dream) plan with the E90 is to make it a 325i Cup car. Whether I get there or not is another matter. In my mind the simplicity of having the NA variant and cost made it a bit more appealing. Plus, like mentioned above, I'm actually too much of a pussy for big power. Of course I f**ked up by not researching enough on the N53 vs N52, the latter being more robust without the DI system.  Suspension-wise on the BMW, and I've been reading the technical requirements for the 325i cup, basically everything except struts has to be standard - bushes are free. I figure you get about 5-10mm adjustment with the rear camber bolts which should translate to 0.5- 1.5 degrees of adjustment. So with coilovers, lowered at 30/40mm I expect I can dial out some of the camber from a drop and attain -1.5 to -2. If necessary, I could get the same effect as the M3 arms with some offset bushes. There is a limitation on ARB width to qualify, although I absolutely want to get either M3 ARBs (can't say sway incase I upset GTSBoy) or the H&R ones - both of these are the cheapest options. Like mentioned, M3 arms are on the way and I should have them fitted within the next week. How are the BC Racing coilovers btw? Reviews are mixed but I think for me they would be fine; a friend of mine uses them on his R34 for track driving and has nothing bad to say. I'm looking at these or the ST coilovers (German brand, new to me) as prescriped the in Cup spec sheet. They're both similarly priced and offer camber adjustment. It's fine but it really upsets my OCD. I've got a couple of options for dialing out the rear camber and keeping my ill-fitting wheels: raise the rear a little bit, say 5mm, that should permit -2.5 camber or drop the front to restore that slight bias of more negative camber up front (not optimal with the roads here). The next alignment won't be until at least next year and I really need to rebuild the rear subframe. For now, I'm not using it at all on the streets except occasional blasts through the German countryside. I was covering about 10k kms p/year in Japan, I expect this to now be about 3-4k. You could say buy better sized wheels, and yes, I should have. But the wheels came from the Z and price of good wheels is just insane now. Again, a couple of options: get a new set (I want 17" RPF1s) or buy two used 9.5J TEs, both are about the same price excluding shipping. 
×
×
  • Create New...