Jump to content
SAU Community

Problems With My Car

Line

By Line,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

ssshonky Grand Master

ssshonky

Posted
Posted

or buy a more expensive filter if price is no option

the foam on those HKS ones gets a bit crumbly at times . hence why I am not a big fan of em

Well it has a HKS kit on it now; so it's not really cheap. I'm only looking for the filter itself and not the kit.

I've found a place I can buy the HKS replacement filter, so its all good.

Will have to see how to goes once I get them tomorrow. :thumbsup:

Line Contributor

Line

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The temperature is fine; everything seems to be fine other than the original issue.

I think it's AFM. Waiting on filters, I will have to see how it goes once I can replace these.

One AFM's sensor had alot of grease or dirt on it, due to most likely a bad air filter.

Hopefully it will be fixed after I replace the filters.

Line Contributor

Line

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I've cleaned out the AFM, replaced the filters. I knew the filters wouldn't be the cause; I thought the oil etc in the AFM sensor might have been caused by the worn air filter.

It seems to have fixed it to some extent; but I'm still having some problems :P

It doesn't not have exactly the same issue after cleaning the AFM, replacing the filters.

Now intermittently it will seem to lose power for a very short time. Maybe 1-3 seconds, almost like its missing but I don't think it is actually missing. It's similiar to the previous issue, it feels the same. When it starts having the issue, if I accelerate it will go back to normal. One time I stopped at the lights it stalled as well. This issue usually happens when I'm just driving along, not accelerating.

Also, sometimes when I first start it(when its cold) it will rev up and down. This is intermittent too, usually will drop to about 300 or so revs the just back up to 1100 or so then go back to 900 and it will be fine.

I've also noticed the oil pressure seems to run high when its cold, around 7 on the metre. Once it warms up, it's ok, sits around 4.

If I boost it for abit when its warmed up, it will go higher. I thought this was normal; it always went up abit when I'm in boost before having these problems. Just now after having these problems it seems to have high oil pressure when its cold.

I have not noticed it doing the exactly the same issue where as before it wouldn't rev over 1000 or 2000 revs, so thats why I think its fixed to some extent.

Any ideas for these other issues would be great.

Thanks :P

Line Contributor

Line

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

It seems to be going back to the original issue now, was not as bad when I put the AFM's and filters back in.

But today it's happened several times in a span of 30mins or so.

I don't think it is a solder issue with the AFM; I've already pulled the AFM's apart and the solder is fine. I think if it is the AFM, its purely faulty and not anything to do with bad solder points.

It's just when it starts happening I'll usually pull over, turn the car off and back on again, then it will be fine.

I think there's a good chance it's something like a hole in one of the hoses. Although difficult to tell, but if its a pin hole or something. This could explain the intermittent issue, maybe occasionally the hose moves and causes the hole to open. Other than this I'm not sure.

My friend said his car had exactly the same problem. There was a crack in one of the hoses. Although I've checked the hoses already, I'll try doing a more thorough check. Or just replace them...

Thanks alot, appreciate your help :cheers:

Edited by Line
  • 2 weeks later...
Line Contributor

Line

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I've changed the AFM's. Not new AFM's; out of another GTR. Which apparently were working fine when they were in the car, this was some years ago though.

Anyway, after replacing the AFM's. It seems to have stopped the original issue. After 4 days with different AFM's I have not experienced the original issue once. But now there's another problem...

Very intermittent; happened about twice over the past 4 days.

First time it happened; I was driving along about 90km's...not accelerating.

My car felt like it was jerking slightly, I kept on driving and came to some lights it seemed to have stopped. After this it was fine.

Yesterday I started the car and it was idling a little rough, so I reved it up abit. Seems like it was hesitating to rev. I'd rev it to 2,000 or so it would drop down about 200 revs and then back up to normal.

I could rev higher no problem, but it would rev up and down 200 or so revs to where I had it set...

When its having this problem, theres no loss in power at all, its not missing or anything like that, just reving up and down by these small increments. :(

With the original issue, I found it would not rev higher than 2,500 no matter if foot to the floor.

I'm certain the original issue is gone with the different AFM's in.

So, I would assume there was something wrong with my original AFM's since it diplays a completely different problem with the AFM's changed.

The guy I borrowed the AFM's from had these sitting in his garage for a few years, he says they were working fine when they were last in a car.

Any ideas on this new problem? Do you think theres a possibility these new AFM's I've put in have something wrong with them?

It's just getting really annoying, its so intermittent. Very difficult to troubleshoot the cause :laugh:

Also taken it to a mechanic, but they were unable to fault it :D

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Edited by Line
JDSracing Community Regular

JDSracing

Posted
Posted

It sounds to me like you might have some water in your fuel, my motorbike used to behave the same way when it got water in it. Try adding some metho to your tank (most effective/cheap but I doubt it's the best thing in the world for your engine) or try some of that petrol treatment / cleaner, most service stations have it.

Have you checked / cleaned or changed the spark plugs?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Blue slip

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
×
×
  • Create New...