Jump to content
SAU Community

In-car Electronic Adjustable Suspension?

Faarooq
 Share

Recommended Posts

Faarooq Collaborator

Faarooq

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone knew of any other suspension products on the market (besides Tein EDFC) that allows for damper adjustable settings in the car? This is for an R33 GTR. I have searched around a bit but seems most of the in car adjustable gear is made for newer model cars and mostly overseas models. If they are not available from the major manufacturers, does anyone know if there are places that do custom suspension with custom in-car controls?

Thanks

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

Greddy are having a promotion with AUTOBARN this month where you get free in cabin damper adjustment with all TYPE-s coilovers.... i think the container i ordered was landing on the 1st of jan... give any store a call. i can no longer help though as i resigned a fortnight ago :D

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Hi,

I was wondering if anyone knew of any other suspension products on the market (besides Tein EDFC) that allows for damper adjustable settings in the car? This is for an R33 GTR. I have searched around a bit but seems most of the in car adjustable gear is made for newer model cars and mostly overseas models. If they are not available from the major manufacturers, does anyone know if there are places that do custom suspension with custom in-car controls?

Thanks

Hi Mark, before you go ahead and waste your money, do you know what adjusting the damper rates actually does? Do you know what you are actually adjusting? Bump, rebound, both? If both, then in what ratio? Which way do you adjust them to overcome some low speed understeer? What about high speed oversteer? Do you really think that changing the rebound damping, on end or both ends, will affect the overall handling balance? Perhaps you think that soft for street is the go and then hard for track? What if that isn't right?

If you don't know exactly what you are doing, wouldn't you be better off with a shock that has a large window of operating efficiency so that you don't have to adjust them?

Happy New Year

Gary

Faarooq Collaborator

Faarooq

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hi Mark, before you go ahead and waste your money, do you know what adjusting the damper rates actually does? Do you know what you are actually adjusting? Bump, rebound, both? If both, then in what ratio? Which way do you adjust them to overcome some low speed understeer? What about high speed oversteer? Do you really think that changing the rebound damping, on end or both ends, will affect the overall handling balance? Perhaps you think that soft for street is the go and then hard for track? What if that isn't right?

If you don't know exactly what you are doing, wouldn't you be better off with a shock that has a large window of operating efficiency so that you don't have to adjust them?

Happy New Year

Gary

Thanks Gary, thats good food for thought..

I used to have HKS Hiper-D coilovers, they shook the car too much and used to bounce around too much even on the softest setting. Now have Bilsteins with King Yellow springs (rate unknown). The Bilsteins seem firmer yet more comfortable and handle better but still get a lot of bounce going on so sometimes I wish I could just make it a bit softer at times to handle the crumby streets. I suspect the springs are too stiff so investigating that first but just thought as a possible alternative going with a decent coilover with an in-control unit that can make it easy to experiment with.

All in all, just checking all options and doing some research first before taking it to a suspension place as I am certainly no expert in the field :thumbsup:

sav man Grand Master

sav man

Posted
Posted

My mate has Trust/Greddy Shocks and his car is the worst riding car I have ever been in, it jumps all over the road at highway speeds, and at low speeds it shakes your teeth out.

They were put on by the pevious owner in Melb (so not old slogged out Jap 15 yo ones). After experensing them I would never even think about trust/greddy suspention.

Pezhead Grand Master

Pezhead

Posted
Posted

Oh Darn. I just ordered the Type-S from UAS - so no free in car adjustment for me.

Also check the spring rates. Mine are for a R33 GTR. They come in two spring rate options. I went for the 8F 6R option but you can get a 12F 10R. Sounds like the previous post had the latter.

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted
Thanks Gary, thats good food for thought..

I used to have HKS Hiper-D coilovers, they shook the car too much and used to bounce around too much even on the softest setting. Now have Bilsteins with King Yellow springs (rate unknown). The Bilsteins seem firmer yet more comfortable and handle better but still get a lot of bounce going on so sometimes I wish I could just make it a bit softer at times to handle the crumby streets. I suspect the springs are too stiff so investigating that first but just thought as a possible alternative going with a decent coilover with an in-control unit that can make it easy to experiment with.

All in all, just checking all options and doing some research first before taking it to a suspension place as I am certainly no expert in the field :banana:

In the case of most Jap shocks you are only adjusting the rebound damping, hence it will make absolutely zero difference to how harsh it is on impact. All you are adjusting is how fast (not how far) it will recoil after the impact. Some adjusters (very rare) do both rebound and bump, but in a fixed ratio, generally between 10 (rebound) to 1 (bump) and 5 to 1. So they also make very little difference to the impact harshness.

By far the spring rate has the most effect on harshness and keep in mind that the standard springs are around 3 kg/mm. R32/33/34 Skylines are sports cars, so they don't have "soft" spring rates to start off with. What effect do you realistically expect when you are more than trippling the spring rate? A 10 kg/mm spring rate is still going to be a 10 kg/mm spring rate no matter what you do with a shock adjustment. Reducing it by 20% (to 8kg/mm) is hardly going to make a discernable difference.

What's the best spring rate? If you aren't going to lower the car and only use it on the road, then the standard spring rate is pretty much spot on. If you are going to lower it, then the ratio of 20% lower to 20% increase in spring rate is logical. If you are going to use it on the track then ask the tyre manufacturer what effective spring rate they suggest for your selected tyre. You will be hard pressed to find any "R" type tyre that will tolerate an effective rate much over 5kg/mm. As for a road tyre, then 4kg/mm is the maximum I have seen for a tyre that will fit a Skyline.

Happy New Year

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...