Jump to content
SAU Community

Sound Proofing Boot

THR34T

By THR34T,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

cheez Mentor

cheez

Posted
Posted

use an adhesive silicon around the metal reinforcement for the boot, and just clean it up so doesnt look bad. get 1 in the colour of your car. that will stop boot rattle. use blu tack under ur number plates to stop them rattling. and for anything else there is duct tape.

Lil_Bobby_260 Mentor

Lil_Bobby_260

Posted
Posted

Were you just after stopping rattles, or actual soundproofing? two different things....

To soundproof a boot/door/anything the most effective way is to head to any place that does audio installations (WOW, Autobarn, Strathfield) and pick up sheets of soundproofing material. Comes in squares close to A4 size. $30 upwards.

Pull out ur boot trim of remove ur door trims and place the sticky side to the tin, cutting it to fit. The good stuff is about 3mm thick, but still cut-able.

THis helps keep the sound in the car, and stops road noise too. Good for SPL, clarity, as well as getting rid of the tinny hollow sound of speakers mounted to door trims.

THR34T Mentor

THR34T

Posted
  • Author
Posted
use an adhesive silicon around the metal reinforcement for the boot, and just clean it up so doesnt look bad. get 1 in the colour of your car. that will stop boot rattle. use blu tack under ur number plates to stop them rattling. and for anything else there is duct tape.

Cheers for that. i've fixed the number plate by putting a layer of this foam materialy behind it which is working fine but i need to fix the boot. thanks for the help

Peace

THR34T Mentor

THR34T

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Were you just after stopping rattles, or actual soundproofing? two different things....

To soundproof a boot/door/anything the most effective way is to head to any place that does audio installations (WOW, Autobarn, Strathfield) and pick up sheets of soundproofing material. Comes in squares close to A4 size. $30 upwards.

Pull out ur boot trim of remove ur door trims and place the sticky side to the tin, cutting it to fit. The good stuff is about 3mm thick, but still cut-able.

THis helps keep the sound in the car, and stops road noise too. Good for SPL, clarity, as well as getting rid of the tinny hollow sound of speakers mounted to door trims.

cheers for that.. yeah i was wanting to stop rattling from number plate and boot but i do want to sound proof the boot.

Thanks

THR34T Mentor

THR34T

Posted
  • Author
Posted
not really. I can have a box at your door for $300.. interested click my sig :blink:

Cheers for that where can i look to get dynamat from a store? sounds expensive lol 300-400 bucks ouch.

ill have to look into it.

cheers for the replies

Chris Rogers Grand Master

Chris Rogers

Posted
Posted
Cheers for that where can i look to get dynamat from a store? sounds expensive lol 300-400 bucks ouch.

ill have to look into it.

cheers for the replies

www.stylyn.com.au

they have two stores in MLB.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...