Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Low end increases? Keep your stock cams then.

For mid-range increases, then 264 degree cams are the go.

The reason people talk about TOMEI poncams is because they are a direct fit (~9.1mm lift).

The HKS cams which are a direct fit are only 8.4mm lift, so most people just go for the TOMEI cams.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553570
Share on other sites

If you want to focus on low-mid range power i would try the new Tomei "Type R" poncams for GTR. I think they are around 252 duration, and very effective for low-mid range. Cam gears will also help bring boost/powerband earlier. I wouldnt do cams without out the wheels. I have Tomei type B poncams in mine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553593
Share on other sites

The HKS cams dont have enough lift in my opinion. You would get better results with the Tomei's. Better to spend the money right the first time. I think its been proven many times that Tomei Poncams are the best cam solution for GTR. They run the most lift of all the "drop-in" type cams which i think is important when choosing cams. More lift equals more air to breathe.

If you just wanna shift your powerband earlier, get a set of cam wheels fitted and dialled in. This will bring power on earlier, but at the expense of top end power dropping off earlier.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553602
Share on other sites

The HKS cams dont have enough lift in my opinion. You would get better results with the Tomei's. Better to spend the money right the first time. I think its been proven many times that Tomei Poncams are the best cam solution for GTR. They run the most lift of all the "drop-in" type cams which i think is important when choosing cams. More lift equals more air to breathe.

If you just wanna shift your powerband earlier, get a set of cam wheels fitted and dialled in. This will bring power on earlier, but at the expense of top end power dropping off earlier.

so keep the standered cams and get some cam wheels?

but surely HKS is still better than standered?

Cos i doubt ill ever spend 1000 on poncams

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553606
Share on other sites

so keep the standered cams and get some cam wheels?

but surely HKS is still better than standered?

Cos i doubt ill ever spend 1000 on poncams

Yeah, HKS would be better than standard of course. But the Tomei's even better :D ..Tomei's would give a greater peak power/torque throughout the rev-range compared to a similar duration HKS cam i think. (Which is the reason most do a cam upgrade)

What are the specs of the HKS cams you were looking at? Durations/lift specs?

Think about what your end result/goal of your car is, and whats gonna work better for you in the long run. If your on a tight budget, then there may be other areas of your car you can upgrade and get better value for $$$ per KW

Someone on the forum may have used the same HKS cams in their car, hopefully they will find this post and give an opinion from experience

Edited by Blue_GTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553614
Share on other sites

HKS DURALUMIN+ Ni PLATING cam gears. item number are.. 22004-AN002 RB exhaust, 22004-AN002 RB intake

Thats all i know about them and ive tried searching cant find anything... hmmmm can anyone shed some light on them??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553618
Share on other sites

its just i can get a set of HKS cheap lik 499 new

Brand new Intake & Exhaust side HKS cams for $499? I don't think so.

For your application the Tomei Type B Poncams are the best choice.

The Tomei Type B package that includes Tomei Duralumin cam gears is a very good option

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553652
Share on other sites

We don't run any cams in RB26's without valve spring upgrades. The standard valve seat pressure is abismal, so the rule of thumb steps we use are;

Up to 9 mm lift = shim the standard valve springs

9 mm to 10 mm = Performance Springs, best value for money and shimmable to achieve the seat pressure desired

Over 10 mm = Jun valve springs, simply the best. Keep in mind the MINOR releaving of the head to clear the cam lobes (not a biggy, but necessary)

All of the above can be accomplished without removing the cylinder head ie; done it situ in the engine bay.

You want more low down performance, TURN UP THE BOOST, nothing else works as well and is that simple.

Happy New Year

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553657
Share on other sites

Brand new Intake & Exhaust side HKS cams for $499? I don't think so.

For your application the Tomei Type B Poncams are the best choice.

The Tomei Type B package that includes Tomei Duralumin cam gears is a very good option

on its from a mate whos not using them now.

let me guess oncams over a grand?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553663
Share on other sites

We don't run any cams in RB26's without valve spring upgrades. The standard valve seat pressure is abismal, so the rule of thumb steps we use are;

Up to 9 mm lift = shim the standard valve springs

9 mm to 10 mm = Performance Springs, best value for money and shimmable to achieve the seat pressure desired

Over 10 mm = Jun valve springs, simply the best. Keep in mind the MINOR releaving of the head to clear the cam lobes (not a biggy, but necessary)

All of the above can be accomplished without removing the cylinder head ie; done it situ in the engine bay.

You want more low down performance, TURN UP THE BOOST, nothing else works as well and is that simple.

Happy New Year

Gary

cheers for that...

you wouldnt know the specs of the above mentioned HKS cams?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553666
Share on other sites

Dont Forget the new GREDDY easy cams, direct fit, supplied as a matched pair with all the centreline checked so that they (in most cases dont need dialing in) , cheap and all have new profiles ground off a brand new machine. 256 9.1mm lift or 264 9.1mm lift available.

http://www.trust-power.com/spec_swf/05engi...mshaft_easy.swf

kenma1.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553678
Share on other sites

If your on a tight budget, then there may be other areas of your car you can upgrade and get better value for $$$ per KW

I am on a tightish budget...

my cars stockish.. has a trust intercooler, n1 turbos and triple plate clutch...

Buying

Turbo back exhaust (unsure what diamater yet or twin/single. ideas?)

Power FC and controller

Boost controller (the add on one to the power fc)

Apexi intake...

then i have around 500 left and thats what ive talked my mate down to wid the cams..... 500 better spent any where else then??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553679
Share on other sites

I am on a tightish budget...

my cars stockish.. has a trust intercooler, n1 turbos and triple plate clutch...

Buying

Turbo back exhaust (unsure what diamater yet or twin/single. ideas?)

Power FC and controller

Boost controller (the add on one to the power fc)

Apexi intake...

then i have around 500 left and thats what ive talked my mate down to wid the cams..... 500 better spent any where else then??

TUNE

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553685
Share on other sites

^^^ good call, with your setup ADz you should see reasonable power as it is with a decent tune.

oh hey ive budgeted for a tune, sorry didnt put that.. still have around 500 left over... cam gears worth it on standered cams?

what kws est would u think that set up could make>?

Edited by Adz2332
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553705
Share on other sites

HKS DURALUMIN+ Ni PLATING cam gears. item number are.. 22004-AN002 RB exhaust, 22004-AN002 RB intake

Thats all i know about them and ive tried searching cant find anything... hmmmm can anyone shed some light on them??

Hi there, just a dumb question if it hasn't already been asked, $499 quoted is for HKS cams or HKS cam gears only?

Cheers GW

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553709
Share on other sites

Hi there, just a dumb question if it hasn't already been asked, $499 quoted is for HKS cams or HKS cam gears only?

Cheers GW

na na not from a shop!!! mate has them selling cheap to me! mates rates lol and no cam gears

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199301-sorted/#findComment-3553711
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...