Jump to content
SAU Community

Differing Ride Height At Rear Of Car

joemac
 Share

Recommended Posts

joemac Apprentice

joemac

Posted
Posted

Specifics;

Car : 1996 R33 GTST

Owned : 3.5 years

Clock : 175,000k (purchased at 105,000k)

Suspension : standard, 17 inch rims

Funny how one thing leads to another....

I was measuring the ride height of my car today as I was thinking of getting the SydKid group buy and lowering it a tad. As I was doing this I noticed a screw sticking out of the rear tyre. I then preceeded to remove the screw hoping that it did not go in too deep. Not so! However, I was prepared and fitted the space saver (not a good look) while the tyre went flat. As I inspected the tyre I noticed that the inside of the tyre was quite worn (with an undulating pattern to the wear) while the outside was still fine. I checked the other rear tyre and same deal.

Now, 6 months after purchasing the car I had a similar problem with the front tyres. I took the car to Pedders and gave them a lot of money to fix the problem. What I got;

1. Camber adjustment bushes

2. Caster adjustment bushes

3. Wheel alignment (all four)

4. Plus two new front tyres

And to date the front has been sweet with no uneven wear on the tyres.

So, I checked the forum and it could be many things but I'm leaning towards an incorrect toe adjustment. I thought I'd take it back to Pedders to check but I noticed something else. The ride height on the right rear (if your facing the front of the car) is 380mm but the ride height on the left rear is 370mm. The ride height for the right front is 370mm but 375mm for the left front. I'm measuring centre of hub to guard height. Now I'm not sure if this means anything but seems a little strange. And yes, the garage floor is pretty flat. Wondered if this could be a suspension issue (ie: shot shockies)? Or something worse?

Anyway, I need to be mobile and will be getting 2 new tyres fitted to the back and then take it into a suspension specialist at first opportunity. Will post any conclusions once they become available but is anyone is able to shed any light on why ride height might be different?

Mayuri Krab Grand Master

Mayuri Krab

Posted
Posted

I noticed a similar thing in my car as well...

The right side (the side closest to the exhaust pipe) is a bit higher than the left, although the 2 front ones are about the same (although I used a crappy ruler to measure it so it could be off a bit).

Good luck with the fixing keep us informed on how you go, once I have money I probably get my mechanic to fix it too...

joemac Apprentice

joemac

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks to those that replied.

Got 2 new rear tyres today. Wheel guy says it could be suspension as they looked quite shagged. I plan on getting the whiteline group buy when Sydney Kid gets back late Jan so will save my pennies for this.

BTW, the wear was only bad on the tyre closest to the exhaust so problem is just affecting one tyre.

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • joshuaho96
      Cas issue

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • joshuaho96
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...