Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My brother hand builds drag bikes....Cromo frames,Full bodies,swingarms ect....unfortunately i have to paint them :) Heres one i did for him today extra coarse metallic ground coat 3 coats of orange candy...this colour is like the heart of a fire ....it burst's and is very powerful....i can post pics of the frame/custom carbon bits and hardcore fabrication that he has done himself if anyones interested....Ive gotta say he really puts in effort on these things.....i think there is something wrong with him :)

gallery_2711_155_155812.jpg

gallery_2711_155_307035.jpg

gallery_2711_155_209412.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199489-drag-bike-pics/
Share on other sites

mmm tasty colour indeed!!! :)

Love drag bikes.

Used to help out with the Pennzoil 'Party Time' bike back in the early 90's when it was running @ calder.

Fond memories, first 6 second bike in the country :)

Good ole day when there was actually decent racing @ calder...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199489-drag-bike-pics/#findComment-3555784
Share on other sites

it use's an early eighties suzuki engine...gsx1100efe or something like that...apparently there the only engines that hold together...i know he does some heavy duty mods to them....he was telling the head they use cost's them 12k

Edited by ylwgtr2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199489-drag-bike-pics/#findComment-3558693
Share on other sites

there not "chips" They are flakes ....candy system is a 3 or more overlay coats....Meaning a groundcoat is put down first followed by a transparent overcoat,followed by clear....the best way to describe it is a layer of cellophane(spelling???)The ground coat is very important to the result of the effect you are trying to acheive...for instance a fine mettalic pink ground coat under a candy red will show up less orange than a coarse mettalic pink...this is due to the flake size having less "candy area"...With our oem bike colours even the solids use candy system....so its not limited to mettalic colours.....people say candy colours cant be blended but we do it all the time...its due to experience and trial and error...So the problem is not only the ground coat its also the application of the candy dye itself....One drop of shit in the dye leads to disaster,the drop of shit breaks the surface tension and the dye pools around the shit leading to a splotch thats much darker than the job,i try to keep candy dye to a two coat limit on edge to egde repairs(where our painted panel meets directly with an original one)If you lean on the dye to much you can find yourself in a world of shit...Example if i want a dark candy blue i use a groundcoat thats dark enough to only require 2 coats of the dye broken down in clear to give the candy depth/flip effect because if you use a silver and push the dyes limit by trying to darken the colour with candy your going to get "train tracks" or "patchyness"on the job...lighter dyes is not much of a problem because to change a silver to orange is not such a big swing....but to change a silver to a dark blue youve got no chance....sometime we have triple candy jobs with a pearl thrown in between one of the dye's.....candy system's really sort out the tradesmen from the monkeys....but they are the invention of the devil for spray painters

Edited by ylwgtr2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199489-drag-bike-pics/#findComment-3558917
Share on other sites

nice color and nice bike want to see when its done please....damm im going to do my car black with cherry pearl u got any tips for me ??? seems like your the person to ask lolz well you seem heaps experienced

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199489-drag-bike-pics/#findComment-3559229
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
    • The video for the servicing and fuel filter change can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44 One of the main jobs I wanted to do before the car officially went on the road, was to remove the awful looking blue silicone hoses. There's nothing wrong with having coloured silicone hoses, but I realise as I'm getting older I prefer monotone engine bays with a splash of colour on the engine cover(s). I cover this in a lot more detail in the Youtube video, so unfortunately there's limited photos of the process. The intercooler, upper radiator, boost vacuum and upper breather hoses were all changed to black silicone with mikalor clamps. The only blue left is a blanking cap at the back of the inlet manifold and the GReddy pulleys (which will be replaced for stock when the cambelt gets replaced) While the intercooler pipes were off I gave them a quick clean/polish too A before photo I do have a replacement air filter on its way. Fuse box covers were painted blue, they're now satin black Another job on the list while the bumper was off, is to add some mesh https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737966256_99b28bfa30_c.jpg[/img] I was hoping to use some thin wire to secure it, but it seems I've misplaced it and the wire I had was too thick to twist easily. I ended up using cable ties for the time being https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131882_c2b7989dcc_c.jpg[/img] Was pleasant to see this https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/54737131627_8b2aab13b3_c.jpg[/img] The last thing to do was to fix the front grill and re-mesh that to match but I ran out of time The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4FsF6tgizE&t=23s
×
×
  • Create New...